What is Tree Cabling?

In nature, trees that have endured damage, perhaps from ice, snow, wind, lightning or human interference, are susceptible to disease, pests, further damage from the elements and potentially death. Such externally inflicted damage as well as natural formation defects can sometimes result in a tree’s inability to support itself – which in its natural environment would cause the tree to collapse, die and decay. Damaged or otherwise structurally unsound trees that adorn the properties of homes, businesses and organizations such as schools can be given a second chance at survival thanks to cabling systems which can be installed by tree service professionals. While it is often best to remove and replace trees which have extensive damage, professionally installed cabling provides a means of support that can salvage a tree that may not otherwise be capable of supporting its own weight. Several factors should be considered in determining whether a particular tree can benefit from a cabling system – the extent of instability, the value of the tree to the property owner and the tree’s condition and age – to name a few. A professional tree service provider in your local area can advise as to whether it is best to remove or add structural support to a particular damaged or unstable tree.

What is tree cabling? Cabling utilizes a system of specialized cable, bolts and/or screws designed to strengthen the structural support of a tree. A tree with a weak or cracked fork is a common candidate for a cabling system, though cabling can also be beneficial for damaged trees or those that have excessive foliage contributing to a structural disadvantage.

Proper height, placement and installation of the cable system supporting a tree are critical to achieving the structural support necessary for the success of the system. Holes must be drilled into or through a tree being outfitted with a cabling system, which opens the door for unnecessary damage to the tree if performed incorrectly. What’s more, an understanding of and adherence to the American National Standards Institute’s standards for tree cabling and bracing is crucial when executing any tree cabling project. For these reasons, tree cabling is not a do-it-yourself enterprise. Tree cabling systems should be devised and installed by experienced tree service professionals who have access to the proper equipment to safely and successfully carry out the project through completion.

About the Author: Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading Austin Texas tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas). Central Texas Tree Care offers services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management and fertilization. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Damage Control for Deer and other Animals

Deer, rabbits, squirrels and other mammals can enjoy a feast in your garden and yard. It is a common problem and people have been trying different remedies for years to stop this kind of damage. Deer feed on leaves, stems, flowers, and bark. They crush flowerbeds with their hooves and chomp off the tops of day lilies. Males often rub their antlers on tree trunks, causing bark to shed and trunks to splinter or even split. This type of deer damage often occurs during the fall season between the months of September and November. The one thing that has proven best to prevent this damage is a spray repellent which is easy to use, biodegradable, and non-toxic.

Deer Away Deer & Rabbit Repellent is designed to protect plants, trees and shrubs from browsing damage caused by deer, big game and other animals such as rabbits & squirrels. Deer Away contains a latex binder that resists washing off. It is designed so that under normal conditions, Deer Away will protect your trees and shrubs for up to three months. In some cases it has been proven to last even more than three months. This depends on the deer population density, the eating patterns of the animals and new plant growth. An example of one of these factors coming into play would be if the deer population was limited but the food supply was plentiful, deer would simply change their browsing area because of the repellent. More frequent application may be required if extreme conditions happen, such as continued heavy rainfall, or if there is rapid new growth on the trees, shrubs, and plants.

Because the repellent is non-toxic, it can be sprayed on fruit bearing trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, conifers, and plant seedlings. It is safe, efficient, biodegradable, and easy to use. It is a food-grade product, but since it is formulated for long-lasting repellency, it binds to the plant and will not readily wash off edible products and may therefore affect the taste. It is not recommended for use in vegetable gardens or on edible crops. However, it is listed for use on citrus and fruit trees in their dormant stages before the fruit is set.

Developed by the Weyerhaeuser Corporation for use in reforestation to protect Douglas Fir seedlings from deer browse damage, Deer Away became commercially available in the late 70’s. In the United States, it has been university tested and proven an effective repellent against deer, rabbits and elk. In Canada, it has been proven an effective repellent for deer and big game, as well as squirrels. It is used as a repellent by the U.S. Forest Service and is guaranteed effective by the manufacturer.

The active ingredient in Deer Away is putrescent egg solids. It repels by both odor and taste, so the deer do not even want to try to eat the foliage turning away first by the smell. A deer’s nose has hundreds of millions of odor receptor sites unlike the human nose which has only five million. The odor is mild and not objectionable to most people.

A knowledgeable tree service expert can look for the signs of which culprit is causing damage to your trees, shrubs, and plants. If it is deer, an expert will know and may suggest applying Deer Away. Apply only to dry plants and only under favoring weather conditions to insure prompt drying of spray, which would be lightly breezy, mild dry weather with low relative humidity. Protection may be only partial if spray is used on wet plants or in damp, cold, foggy and misty weather.

Health note: Another reason to keep deer away from your property is that they are host to deer ticks, which may carry Lyme disease. Transmittable to humans through tick bites, Lyme disease is a bacterial disease that you do not want. Signs of Lyme disease include a ring-shaped rash, flu-like symptoms and muscle aches. Contact your doctor for diagnosis if you have any of these symptoms.

About the Author: Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading Austin Texas tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas). Central Texas Tree Care offers services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management and fertilization. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Tree Damage Due to the Gypsy Moth

The gypsy moth was actually brought to the United States in 1869 in an attempt to start a silkworm industry. The gypsy moth is an example of an experiment gone horribly wrong. Needless to say, the silkworm industry experiment failed with the moth escaping soon afterwards to become, over the past century, a major pest in the northeastern United States and southeastern Canada.

The insect larvae, which are caterpillars, emerge from their eggs beginning in early spring and continuing through mid-May to start the devastating tree damage. Devouring mostly at night, the caterpillars crawl from leaf to leaf eating all the way. And they are not fussy eaters. During the daylight hours, larvae generally seek shade from the sun. But even during the day, if the infestation is heavy, the caterpillars have been known to eat away the leaves continually. As the gypsy moth larvae grows, it moults — five moults for males and six for females. Feeding mostly occurs in the period between each moult which is known as the instar stage. Every time the caterpillar moults becoming bigger, its appetite also becomes larger, as might be expected. This feeding frenzy continues until mid-June or early July. Then the caterpillar enters the pupal stage emerging, finally, as a moth. Both male and female moths exist only to reproduce once with the male moths flying to find the females who are too heavy to fly. Depending on the location, after the females lay their eggs from July to September, moths of both sexes die.

Unfortunately, the devastation is not limited to just a few trees. The gypsy moth caterpillar has a preference for the leaves of deciduous hardwood trees such as maple, elm, and their favorite, oak. However, gypsy moths can also feed on apple, alder, birch, poplar and willow trees. And as the caterpillar grows, it will attack evergreens like pines and spruces. Gypsy moths appear to dislike ashes, sycamores, butternuts, black walnuts, dogwoods and balsams. But during heavy infestations, the competition for food will drive the caterpillar to attack almost any tree or shrub around.

The tree damage can range from light to almost complete defoliation depending, of course, on the degree of infestation. Most deciduous trees can survive a moderate degree of defoliation. Many trees can even survive one complete defoliation by the gypsy moth caterpillar. But if the tree continues every year to be attacked, it can fatally weaken the tree leaving it exposed for further damage from other devouring insects and vulnerable to disease.

About the Author: Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading Austin Texas tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas). Central Texas Tree Care offers services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management and fertilization. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

When Does a Tree Need to be Staked?

After purchasing a tree from the nursery, a hole is dug, and it is planted in your garden or yard. Young trees should be able to stand up tall on their own, but after transplanting them in a new environment, they might need a little help until their roots get reestablished into the new soil and surroundings. Also keep in mind that most nurseries, to avoid using stakes and to maximize on space, often set their trees very close to each other. This promotes height growth, yet sacrifices trunk strength. Remember when you pick a tree at the nursery to look for branches growing along the bottom of the trunk too – not just at the top.

The newly planted tree will concentrate most of its energy into standing upright and reaching for the sun. Its roots try to stretch out amongst the new soil grabbing on to its nutrients. If you think the tree is struggling to get upright, try thinning out the upper branches to reduce wind resistance. When you think the tree needs more coaxing, then stake the tree to help it along in the beginning. A knowledgeable local tree care company can advise you on whether it is necessary to stake.

These are some tips to remember when you stake a tree: First, stake the tree long enough only for it to be able stand on its own. Stakes should not be place too tightly around the tree. There should be plenty of room for the tree to sway back and forth in the wind. Try to imagine what it would do naturally when the stakes are taken out. The stakes should be planted firmly in the ground. If the stakes are too loose, they might bend or slip which would prevent them from doing the job intended. The tree should not rub up against the stakes. The stakes should be buried at least one and a half feet underground to provide ample support.

Guy-wiring may be necessary after planting larger trees. This is done by first setting stakes into the ground at strategic points around the tree out from its trunk about three to four feet. Then roping or rubber tubing is extended from each stake to the first group of branches that are strong enough to hold some tension. The guy-wiring enables the tree to develop its root structure firmly into the ground while the growth can be tamed (more or less) in a balanced, steady way.

Another aid and protective measure to give newly planted trees, mostly done In the northern United States and Canada, is known as wrapping. Wrapping refers to the technique of winding a crepe-type paper around the barks of trees. This is done to prevent the sun-scalding of thinly-barked trees like soft maples and crabapples during the first one or two winters after planting. To wrap a tree, start at the bottom and just wind the paper up around the tree to the level of the second branch. Fasten the paper at the top with a tack. To prevent moisture buildup, disease and insect infestation, don’t forget to remove the wrapping each spring.

About the Author: Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading Austin Texas tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas). Central Texas Tree Care offers services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management and fertilization. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.