The Best Trees For Christmas

Christmas is around the corner and those who like to get an early start on their holiday decorating are eyeing what type of tree they want. According to a poll, the top Christmas Tree Species most available for purchase include the following:


1. Fraser Fir - The Fraser fir is a native southern fir and very similar to Balsam fir. This tree naturally grows at elevations above 5,000 feet and it has dark green needles, 1/2 to 1 inch long. The tree has excellent needle retention along with a nice scent. The Fraser fir is a uniformly pyramid-shaped tree that reaches a maximum height of about 80 feet and a diameter of 1-1.5 feet. Its strong branches are turned slightly upward which gives the tree a compact appearance. Leaves (needles) of the Balsam fir are flattened, dark-green with a medial groove on the upper side and two broad silvery-white bands on the lower surface. Leaves are 1/2 to one inch long, have a broad circular base, and are usually dark green on the upper surface and lighter on the lower surface. On lower branches, leaves are two-ranked (occurring in two opposite rows). On upper twigs, leaves tend to curl upward forming a more "U-shaped" appearance.

Fraser fir was named for Scot botanist John Fraser who explored the southern Appalachians in the late 1700's. Interestingly, this tree is commonly planted at lower elevations for ornamental and Christmas tree purposes. In many respects, Fraser fir and balsam fir are quite similar, although the geographic ranges of the two species do not overlap. Some scientists even suggest that because of the many similarities, the two species were once a single species which has since evolved into the present-day forms.

The combination of form, needle retention, dark blue-green color, pleasant scent and excellent shipping characteristics has led to Fraser fir being a most popular Christmas tree species. North Carolina produces the majority of Fraser fir Christmas trees. It requires from 7 to 10 years in the field to produce a 6-7 feet tree.

2. Douglas Fir - The Douglas Fir is not a true fir but actually has its own unique classification. Unlike true firs the cones on Douglas fir hang downward. Douglas fir grows in a cone-shaped naturally and has 1 to 1-1/2 inch needles that have sweet scent when crushed. The Doug fir tree is shipped to and found in nearly every tree lot in the Unites States. The Douglas-Fir grows 40 to 60 feet and spreads 15 to 25 feet in an erect pyramid in the landscape. It grows to more than 200 feet tall in its native habitat in the West. Hardiness varies with seed source. The Douglas-fir has been the major Christmas tree species used in the Pacific Northwest since the 1920's. Since the 1950's, the transformation from growing trees in the wild to culturing them on plantations has been dramatic. Today, few trees come from forest lands.

The Douglas Fir was named after David Douglas who studied the tree in the 1800's.


3. Balsam Fir - The Balsam fir is a beautiful pyramidal tree with short, flat, long-lasting, aromatic needles. Balsam fir and Fraser fir have many similar characteristics and some botanists consider them extensions of the same species. The Balsam fir has a nice, dark green color and very fragrant. The tree was named for the balsam or resin found in blisters on bark and which was used to treat wounds in Civil War.

Balsam fir is the most cold hardy and aromatic of all firs. The Balsam tree generally grows to 40-60 feet in height and 1-1 1/2 feet in diameter. It exhibits a relatively dense, dark-green, pyramidal crown with a slender spire-like tip. On lower branches needles generally occur as two-ranked (two rows along sides of the branch), 3/4 - 1 1/2 inches long, spreading and not crowded. On older branches, the needles tend to be shorter and curved upward so as to cover the upper sides of the twigs. Individual needles are somewhat flat and may be blunt or notched at the end. Needles have a broad circular base and are usually dark green on the upper surface, lighter on the lower surface. Two silvery bands of stomata (pores) are found on the lower surface.

Balsam fir bark is thin, ash-gray, and smooth except for numerous blisters on young trees. These blisters contain a sticky, fragrant, liquid resin. Thus, the species has been sometimes referred to as "blister pine". Upon maturity, bark may become up to 1/2 inch thick, red-brown and broken into thin scales.

4. Colorado Blue Spruce - The Colorado Blue Spruce is most familiar to people as an ornamental landscape tree. The tree has dark green to powdery blue needles, 1 to 3 inches long and a pyramidal form when young. Colorado blue spruce is very often sold "living" and with an entire root ball - to be planted after the holidays. The spruce was chosen in 1978 and planted as the official living White House Lawn Christmas tree. The young tree is pleasingly symmetrical, is best among species for needle retention and the state tree of both Utah & Colorado.

Colorado Blue Spruce has a horizontal branching habit and grows taller than 75 feet in its native habitat, but is normally seen at 30 to 50 feet in landscapes. Needles emerge as a soft clump, changing to a stiff, pointed needle sharp to the touch. The crown form varies from columnar to pyramidal, ranging from 10 to 20 feet in diameter.

Leaves (needles) are 1-1 1/2 inches long on lower branches but somewhat shorter on upper branches. They are 4-sided and have a very sharp point on the end.

5. Scotch Pine - Scotch or "Scots" pine is the most planted commercial Christmas tree in North America according to NCTA. However, this survey does not suggest that it is the most popular. A true pine, Scots pine was imported from Europe and is not native to America. It was first used in reforestation efforts in the New World. Scotch pine tree has stiff branches, two bundled dark green needles 1 to 3 inches long that are retained for four weeks. The aroma is long-lasting and lingers through the entire season. Scotch pine does not drop needles when dry - excellent retention.

The needles of Scotch pine are produced in bundles of two. They are variable in length, ranging from slightly over 1-inch for some varieties to nearly 3-inches for others. Color is likewise variable with bright green characteristic of a few varieties to dark green to bluish tones more prominent in others. The undersides of Scotch pine needles are characterized by several prominent rows of white appearing stomatal openings.

6. Eastern Red Cedar - The Eastern red cedar (ERC) is mainly a regional favorite and has been a traditional Christmas tree of the South. Branches of eastern Red Cedar are light but compact and forms a pyramidal crown as a young tree. Actually ERC is not a true cedar but in fact a juniper. This tree has very aromatic needles which are a dark, shiny, green color and sharp and prickly to the touch. Although they are slow growing, heights of over 40 feet have been recorded. Eastern Red Cedars have been known to adjust to shade conditions by remaining dormant until the dominant trees loose their leaves. They then conduct photosynthesis while their taller neighbors are dormant.

7. White Spruce - White spruce is a tree of the northeast US and Canada. It is a regional favorite because it grows into the best shapes in the wild. White spruce has green to bluish green needles but crushed needles have an unpleasant odor. Another problem with the spruce is it has poor needle retention. The tree is excellent for heavy ornaments. White spruce is the state tree of South Dakota. Trees often reach 80-140 feet in height and 1.5 to 3 feet in diameter. The oldest white spruce may reach 300 years of age.

8. Eastern White Pine - White pine has been valued as a timber tree for centuries but can be cultivated for a Christmas tree if heavily sheared. White pine is grown mostly in the mid-Atlantic states for commercial Christmas trees. The tree retains needles throughout the holiday season but has little or no fragrance and not a good tree for heavy ornaments. The tree is sought by people who suffer from allergic reactions to more fragrant trees. The White pine is the largest pine in United States and the state tree of Michigan and Maine.

Leaves (needles) are soft, flexible and bluish-green to silver green in color and are regularly arranged in bundles of five. Needles are 2 1/2-5 inches long and are usually shed at the end of the second growing season. Both male and female flowers (strobili) occur on the same tree, with pollination occurring in spring. Cones are 4-8 inches in length, usually slightly curved and mature at the end of the second season. Cone scales are rather thin and never have prickles. Cones also have exudations of a fragrant gummy resin.

For Christmas trees, sheared trees are preferred, although some people feel shearing results in trees too dense for larger ornaments. Needle retention is good to excellent. White pine has very little aroma, but, conversely, is reported to result in fewer allergic reactions than do some of the more aromatic species. To produce a 6-foot tree requires 6-8 years on good sites.


9. White Fir or Concolor Fir - White fir is one of the longest-needled firs and is sometimes mistakened for a pine. A significant portion of these Christmas trees are used in California. Concolor fir has blue-green needles that are 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches long. The fir has a nice shape with a pleasing aroma and good needle retention. White fir, also commonly called concolor fir, is native to the western United States and may reach sizes of 130-150 ft. in height and 3 to 4 ft. in diameter. The oldest white firs may occasionally reach 350 years of age. It produces a spire-like crown with a straight trunk. As a Christmas tree, white fir has good foliage color, a pleasing natural shape and aroma, and good needle retention.


10. Virginia Pine - Virginia pine has only recently been used as a Christmas tree. It tolerates warmer temperatures and has been developed as a southern alternative to Scotch pine. The tree has to be mechanically formed into shape; the foliage is dark green to gray in color; the limbs are stout with woody branches; Virginia pine is one of the most often purchased Christmas trees in the Southeastern United States. The Virginia pine's needles occur in pairs. They are twisted and range from 1.5 to 3" in length. They are relatively short when compared to those of other pines. Loblolly needles, by comparison, are from 4 to 9" long. Individual needle clusters can remain for 3 or 4 years. They are then shed and replaced with new needles as the branches grow in length.


Virginia pine responds well to trimming. And, on Christmas tree plantations their foliage can become extremely dense. As with other pines, these show a tendency to self pruning when grown with competition from other trees. This characteristic becomes apparent after about the sixth year as the lower limbs begin to wither.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Keeping Your Tree Soil Healthy

A tree is as healthy as the soil it sits in. And yet, a trees soil is often overlooked. So what can you do to improve your tree's soil?

To start, soil is not just dirt.  You can consider soil as its own ecosystem as it really is. There are thousands of different organisms that coexist within soil, often competing, but often helping each other survive.  These include plants, animals, fungi and bacteria - all which have forged lasting symbiotic relationships with other species at some point in their evolutionary histories.  These organisms rely on the benefits of these relationships through times of hardship.  Soil also contains large numbers of mineral elements.  The composition of these elements varies greatly from region to region which is one reason that some plants do well in certain areas, while others quickly die. 

When trees are planted in areas that are often depleted of minerals and needed organisms is when the most attention needs to be placed on supplementing the soil. Such places often include areas that have been over planted already or urban environments. Places that are over planted often pull many of the nutrients from the soil, especially if they are similar trees requiring the same organisms and minerals. As for urban environments, the soil is often inadequate due to lacking certain minerals along with beneficial mycorrhizal fungi and nitrogen-fixing bacteria. 

To improve your soil, the first thing you can do is to fertilize. When fertilizing, remember that you are trying to mimic a soil's ideal condition. An easy way to replenish your soil is with compost. If you don't want to pay for compost, just allowing your leaves to remain on the ground instead of raking them up, will allow these leaves to break down and return their nutrients back to the soil. If you prefer to purchase your fertilizer or don't have leaves you can just allow to crumble into the ground, look for fertilizers made up of macronutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium) and micronutrients (such as Iron, Magnesium and Manganese).  These minerals all have different effects on the growth of a tree and different trees need different formulations. 

A good time to fertilize trees in most Northern temperate climates is from fall to mid-spring.  At these times the tree's roots take the nutrients from the soil and apply them to important health-promoting functions such as root development and disease resistance, rather than simply putting out new growth. You can also fertilize during the growing season which can help your tree overcome mineral deficiencies and fight off infections.  If you are fertilizing in mid- to late summer, avoid formulations high in nitrogen as this will just promote weak, new growth that may be easily damaged in the winter.

When applying fertilizer, place them where you think they best will be taken up by the tree's roots.  In general, the roots extend well beyond the outer reach of a tree's branches. 

The fertilizer must also be placed underneath the roots of any competing plants such as grass or other ground cover.  Spreading granular fertilizer on the lawn might make your grass greener, but it will likely not help your tree.

The second step to improving your soil is to add mycorrhizal fungi.   In exchange for sugars and simple carbohydrates, the mycorrhizal fungi absorb and pass on minerals and moisture required for the plant's growth. Because mycorrhizal fungi live in and around a plant's living root system, they effectively extend the root system deeper into the soil, allowing a plant to take in more nutrients. These organisms are a vital link in a plant's nutrient cycle.


In nature, mycorrhizal fungi are found on about 99% of plant species, but in urban environments, the poor, compacted soils often lack this fungi.

Soil takes time and management, but by practicing a few practical necessities, your trees can continue to become stronger and healthier.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.





Managing Wood-Boring Insects

To keep your trees healthy, one will want to watch out for what is called wood-boring insects. These insects are considered secondary invaders, which means if your tree is already unhealthy, infestation of these insects will only damage them more. So what can you do to avoid these wood-boring creatures? According to the local extension agency, here are a few good horticultural practices:

• Select well-adapted species of trees and shrubs that are not commonly attacked by woodborers in your area. Arizona ash, birch, cottonwood, locust, soft maple, flowering stone fruits (such as peaches and plums), slash pines (in west Texas), willow and poplar are especially prone to borer attack.
• Choose and prepare a good planting site to avoid plant stress, freeze damage, sunscald and windburn.
• Minimize plant stress and use proper watering and fertilization practices.
• Avoid injury to tree trunks from lawn mowers, weed trimmers or construction. 
• Promptly care for wounded or broken plant parts using pruning or wound paint during all but the coldest months of the year.
• Properly thin and prune during colder months.
• Remove and destroy infested, dying or dead plants or plant parts, including fallen limbs.
• Wrap tree trunks and limbs with quarter-inch hardware cloth spaced about 1 1/2 inches from the tree’s surface where woodpecker damage is likely. Sometimes wrapping trunks to prevent borer attack is ineffective and may, under certain conditions, increase the rate of infestation. Using plastic trunk protectors to help prevent injury from lawn mowers and weed trimmers is a good idea.

So what about the use of pesticides, you may ask? Once trees and shrubs are infested, non-chemical options for borer control are limited. One option is to remove and destroy heavily infested or injured plants. Damage sites also can be inspected closely to determine if the larvae stages can be extracted from the plant with a pocketknife, wire or other suitable tool.   Again, it is important to remember that stressed, unhealthy trees can be attacked repeatedly and will need repeated applications of insecticide indefinitely. In most cases this is neither economical nor environmentally justified. When chemical treatments are used, efforts always should be made to improve overall tree health.

Insecticide products registered for borer control are applied as sprays to the trunks and branches, and are non-systemic, residual insecticides (e.g., bendiocarb, carbaryl, chlorpyrifos, endosulfan, es-fenvalerate, f luvalinate, lin-dane, methoxychlor, sumithion). While these products do not kill larvae that have already penetrated the sapwood or heartwood, they will kill adult and larval stages tunneling through the treated bark layer. These are primarily a preventive treatment. Some products (those containing paradichlorobenzene and ethylene dichloride) act as fumigants to repel egg-laying adults or kill accessible larvae.  

Trunk injection products (containing acephate, dicrotophos and oxydemeton-methyl) are registered for treatment of some borers. These products are supposed to work by delivering insecticides into the cambium and phloem tissues where borers feed. These injections are most effective against sap feeding insects and rarely affect woodborer larvae. Research has shown that damage caused by inserting the injection devices into trunks can be significant.

One way to protect your trees is to consider where these wood boring insects are coming from. Most adult woodborers emerge from firewood stored indoors. While most of these insects are not considered harmful, old house borer and powderpost beetles will attack seasoned, dry wood inside the home. Treating firewood with insecticide is both ineffective and potentially dangerous to the homeowner. Wood should be stored outdoors away from the house until just before use. If firewood is infested with borers it can be treated by wrapping it in a tarp and allowing sunlight to heat it. Stacking wood layers in alternate directions will help it dry and reduce areas that can harbor insects.

By practicing these few things, you could save yourself a lot of time and money in protecting your trees.
Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Saving Money with Trees

Everybody is looking for ways to cut energy costs these days. According to the Department of Energy, strategic planting of as few as three trees can provide the average household with an energy savings of between $100-$250 annually. How can you use trees to save energy?

First, understanding how our homes are heated or cooled by temperatures outside is important. During the winter, homes can gain warmth through the sun and south facing windows due to the sun being low in the sky. East and west windows will also provide small amounts of sunlight into your home in the winter. This free energy can represent 5% to 20% of the energy needed to heat your home. Cutting out wind and air leaks can also help maintain the warmth in your home.

As for the summer, blocking out unwanted heat is the secret to maintaining a comfortable home. This is where planting trees that create shade can help you conserve energy. To know where to strategically plant your trees, identify these conditions:

• Figure out which side of your house faces north.
• Draw your house on a piece of paper with north facing the top of page. Show on the house drawing the approximate location of east and west-facing windows.
• Draw in the approximate location of the major features of your yard: driveway, property lines, power lines, existing trees.
• Find north exposure. Note shadows in your drawing.
• Evaluate where trees will be most beneficial
• Look at planting shade trees due west of west-facing windows.
• Look at planting an evergreen windbreak tree to the north and west.
• Select and mark your best planting site so that it doesn’t conflict with existing trees, wires, etc.

Planting trees strategically is important. For the most shade, plant near west and east windows while avoiding planting trees in front of south windows. Select trees that can be planted within twenty feet of the window and that will grow at least ten feet taller than the window. When space permits, use as many trees as needed to create a continuous planting along all major west and east facing windows. Deciduous trees will provide maximum summer shade while minimizing winter shade.

Besides creating shade, your trees also can serve as a windbreak. Trees are ideal wind filters; they bend gently with its force slowing down turbulence. For maximum wind protection, you need enough trees along with trees that are dense and tall enough. The ideal windbreak tree is a dense evergreen whose branches extend from ground level to a height at least twice as tall as the building being sheltered. Windbreak trees need to be clustered together to reduce wind going between the trees. The most efficient way to do this is to plant trees in rows perpendicular to the primary winter wind direction—usually running along the west and north sides of the property. Since the wind will increase some at the edges of the windbreak, not only should the trees be taller, but the windbreak should be much longer than the buildings being sheltered. To keep dense branches to the ground, evergreens need full sun that means they must not be overcrowded.

Trees do a lot more than help you lower your energy costs and provide birds with a place to perch. Trees increase the value of your home, reduce air pollutants, and make life comfortable all while saving people on their energy bills.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.