Planting and Caring For Dwarf Trees

If space is a concern for you but you really would love to grow your own fruit, dwarf trees may be your solution. The size difference between a dwarf fruit tree and a standard-sized tree is that a dwarf is usually less than 10 feet tall as opposed to a full size, which can grow from 20 to 40 feet tall.

The varieties offered in dwarf variety can be limited, mostly with apples and peaches. If you are purchasing peaches, nectarines, almonds, apricots and citrus such as lemons or limes, you can often find what you are searching for.

Examples of dwarf fruit trees available include:

• Apple – Cortland, Enterprise, Goldrush, Granny Smith, Honeycrisp
• Pear – Beurre Bosc, Bartlett
• Cherry – Balaton Pie Cherry, Blackgold Sweet Cherry
• Plum – Burbank Elephant Heart, Bubblegum Plum,
• Peach – Elberta, Belle of Georgia, Blushingstar Peach
• Lemon – Meyer Lemon
• Lime – Kaffir Lime
• Oranges – Moro Blood Orange, Washington Navel, Bouquet de Fleur Sour Orange
• Mandarins – Gold Nugget, Murcott Mandarin, Dancy Tangarine
• Grapefruit – Rio Red, Chinese, Melogold

Dwarf trees are great for people who have apartments in that they do well in containers. Keeping them in containers also makes them easy to prune and harvest. Younger trees will also bear fruit faster. If you are growing your dwarf tree in a container, you can use almost any type including those made of plastic, clay, metal, ceramic or wood, as long as there is adequate drainage. When planting your dwarf, start with a container at least six inches wider than the trees root ball.

Dwarf trees need well-drained sandy soil with a moderate amount of fertilizer. It is best to put your potted tree in a place that gets full sunlight, although there are some varieties that do well in partial shade. A dwarf tree like a full sized tree will require regular pruning. Pruning will not only keep the tree healthy but will also help maintain the shape of the tree. Most pruning is done during the trees dormancy, just before active growth begins in the spring. Some summer pruning can be done to remove branches and to maintain the tree's small size.

During the winter, move your dwarf fruit tree indoors and away from drafts. Trees in pots should be watered as needed, be sure to look at the tag that comes with the tree to determine how much water is required. Fertilizing should be done at least once every four to six weeks during the trees growing season.

Because the tree may outgrow its pot, its best to make sure you transplant the tree into a larger pot before it gets to big, approximately one size up every two years.

If you are looking for a dwarf tree to plant outside due to restricted yard size, there are also dwarf ornamentals. Take into consideration your areas hardiness zone before picking out your tree, as you would when planting any other tree. Also determine whether you want an ornamental that flowers. Most dwarf ornamentals will be ten feet in size or smaller. Dwarf ornamentals available include:

• Japanese Maple
• Alberta Spruce
• Weeping Redbud
• Tina Crabapple
• China Girl Dogwood
• Stewartia
• Persian Ironwood
• Franklin Tree
• Fir – Meyer’s Fir, Korean Fir, Balsam
• Chase Manhattan Dwarf Ginkgo
• Dwarf Larch
• Weeping Youngii Birch

Growing dwarf trees can be fun and entertaining, whether you have to go small because of room or just because you want to.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Noninfectious Diseases of Trees

There are many reasons a tree begins to weaken, wither and potentially dies that have nothing to do with disease. Extreme temperature changes and water supply are the primary cause of tree problems. Secondarily would be chemical substances in the soil, water or air, transplant shock and injury.

So what are the ways a tree can become weakened?

1. Hot or High Temperatures - Hot temperatures can cause trees to defoliate and their leaves to become scorched. Heat or drying winds cause a rapid loss of water. When leaves begin to turn yellow or brown and fall prematurely, it is most likely due to heat.



2. Cold Temperatures - In early fall or late spring, when trees are actively growing, trees are susceptible to extreme cold and frost. Signs of cold weather injury include Frost Crack, where long vertical bulges or cracks are caused in the bark of a tree. Frost cracking can reoccur in the same place causing a buildup of tissues and formations of scarring. To protect your trees in the winter you can do the following:

• Plant tree species adapted to local conditions.
• Cover young trees if frost is expected.
• Avoid planting in low-lying areas subject to frost.
• Do not use high nitrogen fertilizer late in the growing season.
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Avoid wounds to the trunk and properly prune branches to prevent the formation of frost cracks.

3. Drought - Drought occurs when there is a lack of rain over a long period of time. Without an adequate storage of water within the ground the tree cannot uptake water by its roots. Symptoms include wilting, off-color foliage, twig and branch dieback in the crown, and the death of fine roots. The crowns of drought stricken trees usually die from the top down and from the outside in. Trees in this condition are more readily attacked by fungi and insects. Shallow-rooted trees, and trees planted on light, sandy soils with poor moisture-holding capacity are most susceptible to drought. To protect your trees from drought:

• Do not plant shallow-rooted species in areas of low moisture or on sandy soils.
• Put mulch around the base of the tree. In addition to helping retain soil moisture, mulch helps to control weeds, preventing lawnmower and weed whip injury.
• Conifers growing over high water tables for long periods may die quickly after the water table drops. The foliage turns red and drops off soon after death.
• Water ornamental trees about once a week to moisten soil 6 to 12 inches deep into the root zone.

4. Excess Moisture - Trees can get too much water as well as too little. Trees planted in areas where there is poor drainage can become waterlogged. When this happens, oxygen is deprived from the roots and the tree begins to die. Symptoms of oxygen deficiency closely resemble those of drought injury: reduced growth, small leaves and thin crowns, twig and branch dieback, and tree death. Roots in waterlogged soils are susceptible to a variety of soil-borne fungal pathogens. To protect your plants you can:

• Plant species that are adapted to the conditions in areas subject to periodic flooding.
• Prepare planting sites to allow for adequate drainage and root growth.

5. Chemical Injury - There are many chemicals in the air and water that effect trees. Symptoms of chemical injury are often difficult to diagnose, as the possibilities are endless. Some include:

a. Nutrient Deficiency

- Trees need certain nutrients for proper growth. Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the most important. Symptoms of nutrient deficiency mimic many other diseases and vary greatly depending upon which nutrient is lacking. The most common symptoms of nutrient deficiency are: reduced growth, yellowing, and necrosis.

b. Herbicide Injury

- Herbicides applied improperly can injure trees. Leaves of deciduous trees will become distorted, curled, and brown on the margins. Conifer needles will turn yellow or brown, and succulent shoots will curl or become deformed. Trees will usually survive, but their growth will be stunted.

c. Salt Injury - Salts from roads that is splashed onto the foliage or is absorbed through the roots will cause a browning of the tree, especially on the side facing the roadway. Trees growing where salt accumulates because of drainage patterns will also be affected. The affected foliage will fall off in the spring, thinning the crown, although new growth will make the tree appear otherwise healthy. However, these trees will grow more slowly and remain stunted, and may eventually be killed by prolonged exposure.

There are other noninfectious factors that can cause trees to wither or die including winter scald and other types of pollution. Before treating your trees, be sure to examine all the possibilities. Consult a professional to save yourself time and money and in the long run you may help your tree become healthier.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Identifying Frost Crack On Your Trees

If you have ever heard what sounds like gunfire go off in the dead of winter and it isn't hunting season, it could be the sound of tree bark cracking. Frost crack is not a drug, but an occurrence distinct in thin barked trees, deciduous trees and trees that stand isolated rather than in groups or stands.

This isn't to say other types of trees don't develop frost crack. Trees that grow quickly and vigorously are more apt to develop frost cracks than very young or old trees. One can also find trees with frost crack that have some sort of weakness in the bark, which occurred to the tree earlier.

When and why does frost crack occur? Typically in late winter or early spring due to water building up within the tree's inner bark or xylem. As the wood expands and contracts with significantly fluctuating temperatures and the bark does not contract at the same rate as the inner phloem, cracking occurs.

Trees that are growing in poorly drained sites are more subject to frost cracking than are those growing in drier, better drained soils. Trees suddenly left exposed by felling are highly susceptible as well.

Frost cracks can be up to several feet long. You may not notice the cracks until spring and they are typically on the southwest side of the tree. Some cracks heals n the summer and then reopen again in the winter. If cracking and healing reoccurs the tree can develop frost ribs.


The wood beneath the frost crack is rarely damaged but the cracks can serve as sites of entry for wood decay organisms, including insects, fungi and bacteria. Timber damaged in this way is unsuitable for use in buildings, etc.


The sloughing or peeling of the bark is a normal process, especially in the spring when the tree begins to grow. The outer layers of the bark are dead tissue and therefore they cannot grow, the outer bark splitting in order for the tree to grow in circumference, increasing its diameter. The inner bark cambium and phloem tissues are living, and form a new protective layer of cells as the outer bark pulls apart. Most tree species try to seal the edges of wounds by forming a callus layer. The wound’s edges begin to form this callus during the first growing season after that crack appears and the callus layer will continue to grow and after many years, the wound may close over entirely.


Normal furrowed bark has a layer of bark over the wood below, however bark may peel or fall off the tree in sheets (river birch), plates (sycamore and pine), strips (cedar) or blocks (dogwood).

To reduce frost crack, avoid using fertilizers late in the growing season. Also, protect your trees from physical damage that can occur from lawn mowers, trimmers car bumpers, grazing animals, spades, etc. You can protect young trees in winter with paper tree wrap. Wrap your tree from ground level to the first main branches.

Trees most susceptible to frost cracking are: apple, crabapple, beech, cherry, golden-rain tree, horsechestnut, London planetree, some maples, pin Oak, tulip Tree, walnut, and willow. With the proper knowledge of what frost crack is and a few preventative measures, it is possible to try and protect your trees throughout the winter.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Caring For Dormant Trees

Trees are survivalists, as is all of nature. If anything begins to threaten them, they adapt or change. For trees in the winter, dormancy is the solution to conserving energy and surviving. What is dormancy? It is a period when the tree's physical life cycle is temporarily stopped to help the tree minimize metabolic activity. There are different types of dormancy.

One type of dormancy is called Predictive Dormancy, this occurs when a tree enters a dormant phase before the weather changes - for instance, before it begins to freeze or get cold. There is also Consequential Dormancy, this occurs when a tree goes into dormancy after outside conditions have occurred. Consequential Dormancy occurs often in places where the climate is unpredictable.

The life of a tree occurs in cycles. In early spring, as days begin to bet longer and the weather is warmer, the tree is pulling all of its energy together for growth. This is when a tree puts off its seeds. Some trees produce flowers, from which the seeds come, before the leaves come out in the spring.  These flowers produce seeds that ripen in the spring and fall to the ground and start to grow that year.  Other seeds ripen and drop off in the fall and lay dormant over the winter and start to grow the following spring. In order for any seed to sprout and develop it must have food, water, sunlight and warmth.  Until it gets roots, a stem above ground, and some leaves or needles, the seed uses the food stored in its shell to develop growth.  As roots go deeper into the soil they absorb water and minerals form the soil and send these up into the stem.
As the weather continues to warm and summer arrives, the tree begins to grow rapidly taking advantage of the long days and optimum sunlight. For most trees, growth ceases by late summer (early August). That is, the tree does not produce any more leaves after this time. From this point until fall, the objective of the tree is to prepare for winter. During fall, a tree stores up food and energy reserves everything that is needed for next spring's growth.
The shorter days, cooler temperatures and reduction in sunlight then stimulates dormancy in the tree. During dormancy a tree may look dead but it is far from it. It is only waiting for spring. Changing the conditions around the tree may alter the time of year that the tree goes into dormancy. Heavy watering and fertilizing in fall (September) may stimulate the tree to continue growing, but this is not recommended. Any new growth produced at this time of year will have little chance to prepare itself for winter, and will most likely die from winterkill.
As winter finally sets in, the tree will then become fully dormant. Trees still continue to slowly grow roots, respire and take in water and nutrients throughout the winter. Many dormant trees have to be protected to keep it free from disease and insects. Caring for your tree before it goes into dormancy such as pruning it in late fall will help form and strengthen your tree as well as encourage new growth in the spring. Pruning also minimizes storm damage.

Mulching your tree in the winter is also helpful to the tree as it protects its feeder roots. If you are in a region that receives a lot of rain or snow, you may also want to consider aerating the soil around the tree so it doesn't become waterlogged. It is critical not to damage tree roots in the soil as you do this so work only on those few inches at the surface crust. 

If you are in an area that receives little rain, be sure to water your tree throughout the winter. Your tree won't need as much water but nonetheless will need moisture.

A tree is a strong organism but can be stronger with a little help along the way, even in the winter.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Old Growth Forests And Their Value

There was a time when the earth was nearly covered in trees or ancient forests. Hard to believe as we look around today and see an ocean of homes or cleared land.

Ancient forests that once covered the land has been dwindled down to almost 20 percent of its historic standing. And half of this 20 percent has been removed just in the last thirty years. Even with deforestation's estimated contribution to global warming, ancient trees are still being removed due to illegal logging and industrial scale farming.

So what is an 'old growth forest'? Definitions state that it is a presence of old trees, dead standing snags, a multilayered canopy dominated by large overstory trees, and accumulations of large dead woody material.

Other requirements for an old growth forest include:

• The forest habitat possesses relatively mature, old trees;
• The old-growth trees have long continuity on the same site;
• The forest itself has not been subjected to significant inhabitation by mankind that has altered the appearance of the landscape and its ecosystems, has not been subjected to logging, and has inherently progressed per natural tendencies.

Many wonder why old-growth forests cannot just be replanted and whether that would provide the same amount of carbon and nutrients as an old growth forest would. The answer is no, old-growth forests take years to build rich communities of plants and animals, which contribute to the biodiversity of the planet. Old-growth forests also serve as a reservoir for species that cannot thrive or easily regenerate in younger forests. Such forests also provide invaluable medicines that are being discovered to cure ailments. And last, old-growth forests store large amounts of carbon above and below the ground, either as humus or in wet soils as peat.

Because of the large amounts of carbon stored in old forests in the wood, soil humus and peat, when these forests are cut or destroyed, the carbon dioxoide or methane is released into the environment, agitating the already current ecosystem.

Old-growth forests store large amounts of carbon, which is stored in wood, soil humus and peat. When forests are cut, the trees' wood, soil humus and peat all decay, releasing the carbon as carbon dioxide or methane. Logging practices often include burning of the logged area, releasing further CO2. Release carbon dioxide into the atmosphere and then trying to counteract it with the planting of new trees has proven counter-productive. To replace the old forests and recapture the benefits these trees provide can take centuries.

Old forest trees also have a staggered ages, something a new forest planted would not have. As trees regenerate and grow at different times along with varying spatial location to the main canopy, the regeneration pattern can easily be disturbed by humans.

A forest in old-growth stage has a mix of tree ages, due to a distinct regeneration pattern. New trees regenerate at different times from each other, because each one of them has different spatial location relative to the main canopy and hence each one receives a different amount of light. This regeneration pattern is different from the regeneration of trees after a major disturbance, when trees regenerate on the site in relatively similar time. In younger forests, trees have similar ages, because they all started to grow at the same time, after the old forest stand was killed.

The biggest issue with disturbing what Mother Nature has spent millions of years creating is the tipping of the biodiversity scale. Biodiversity is the representation of a large number and wide range of species of animals, plants, fungi and microorganisms. Scientists consider biodiversity important to the life of the planet as it can provide important balance in cases where when life forms are limited, one organism can wipe out huge amounts of crops - as in the Irish Potato Blight.

Today, biodiversity is most strongly represented in ancient forests, and more specifically in Brazil's Atlantic Forest. This forest along contains close to 20,000 plant species, 1350 vertebrates, and millions of insects, about half of which occur nowhere else in the world.

Describing the benefits of ancient-forests can be complex and scientific when related to the benefits of the whole planet. But on a human scale, they represent our heritage and a beauty that is hardly irreplaceable.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Trees and How Their Roots Can Cause Problems

There is nothing more beautiful than a tree, whether it is gracing the entrance to your yard or shading a porch or sidewalk. While many worry about how big a tree will get and whether its branches will break off and be of danger to their home or overhead wires, few remember to also look below and take caution of that tree's roots.

What ways can tree roots be a problem you might ask? Here are just a few things that can get damaged due to intrusive root systems:


1. Underground Pipes - A tree's invasive roots can affect old pipes that are barely holding together. Although pipes being broken by roots isn't a common incident, it still can be an issue. Many times the pipes are already leaking, giving the tree extra reason to grow larger and larger, stimulating root growth toward the break in the pipe. Species of trees that are most problematic to pipes are poplars, willows, and silver maples. If your trees roots have already infiltrated your pies, it could be a hassle to repair but it is still possible. Instead of removing the tree you can replace the faulty pipes with something more durable. This will not only be the easiest but possibly the cheapest and the best solution long term.

2. Septic Systems - Roots in your septic system is a common problem for many homeowners. Trees roots cannot only enter your septic tank area but also the leach field that drains your septic. The most common specie of trees that cause such problems are willow, maple, and elms. If you already have a problem with your trees roots blocking your septic tank, then you know it requires a professional to clear your system. There are chemicals you can buy for your septic systems that will kill roots, but the best solution is not planting trees too close to your septic tank.

3. Foundations - If you have seen a home with cracked flooring and walls, many look for a nearby tree planted too close to the house. While roots can occasionally be the cause of foundation damage, most homes' foundations are ruined due to the soil beneath the house drying and settling. Soil subsidence is a common reason for damage to a home's structure. Under very special circumstances roots can actually contribute to this problem. What is soil subsidence? It is when soil shrinks during periods of drought and expands when there is a lot of moisture. This shrinking and expansion shifts a home's foundation and eventually can cause walls in the home or flooring to crack.

4. Sidewalks and Pavement - Most of us have seen this kind of damage as we walk along a sidewalk and it begins to buck and roll where a tree is nearby. Roots from trees can crack or lift side walks, drives ways, and other paved surfaces. Trying to severely prune a tree to stop this damage from occurring rarely works and most likely will kill the tree. While having shade over a sidewalk sounds wonderful, it's only a matter of time before the tree grows too big and the roots began to cause that sidewalk damage.

If you installing the sidewalk and the trees at the same time, you can put in root barriers around the sidewalk as well as curbs, gutters, parking lots, and driveways. This will help to reduce the trees growth. These barriers are placed in the soil to a depth of 18 to 24 inches by trenching along the area to be protected. If trees are too close to pavement, or if compacted soil forces large roots to grow very near the soil surface, roots can eventually lift pavement. When roots encounter a paved area, the only entry is often a gap between the soil and pavement. Future problems can be prevented at the time of planting by using smaller plants, providing a minimum distance of 4 feet between the tree and the pavement, or using mechanical barriers to prevent roots from growing under the pavement. Remedies for lifted pavements around mature trees often involve either moving the pavement away from the tree or pruning off the problem roots. Cutting off the problem roots often causes stress and instability. Trees without sufficient root support can be blown over more easily in a storm.

Roots do not have to be a problem, it is just a matter of examining where you plant your trees in relation to objects you know that can become damaged. And if that tree has already been planted, don't despair, there are solutions for you to consider.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.