Misinformation About Tree Care

When it comes to caring for our trees, many of us rely on information passed down to us from our family or friends. The problem with this is that many times this information can be wrong and many do not find out until it is too late. So what are some common beliefs about trees that aren't true?
COMMON BELIEF #1: Securely stake your new tree when planting it so that it develops stable root system and strong trunk. Staking trees can be necessary at times just to keep them upright and to let them get established when first planted, but professionals have discovered that unstaked trees tend to develop a more extensive root system and better trunk taper than those that are staked. Allowing a small amount of movement can help root and trunk development. Of course, the worst effect of staking is the possibility of trunk damage from the staking wires or ties. Staking materials usually should be removed after one year to avoid "girdling" the tree.
COMMON BELIEF #2: You should wrap your tree trunks to prevent insect entry or sunscald. Generations of people have been wrapping their tree trunks for years, sometimes with kraft paper.  Studies using most common tree wraps have shown that they do not prevent extreme fluctuations in temperature on the bark. In some cases, the temperature extremes are worse. Also, tree wraps have proven quite ineffective in preventing insect entry. In fact, some insects like to burrow under it. If you feel an absolute need to protect your thinbarked trees, such as ash, birch, linden or maple, a loose fitting tree guard in a light-reflective color would be better than a trunk wrap. 
As with tree staking, trunk guards should be inspected periodically to make sure they aren’t restricting the trunk.  Most guards can be removed six to twelve months after the tree is planted.  Always remove wraps that come with a new tree.  It was there to protect the bark during transport.
COMMON BELIEF #3: Pruning trees heavily compensates for the loss of roots. Although pruning the top can reduce the amount of water that evaporates from the leaves, the tree needs a full crown to produce the much-needed food and the plant hormones that induce root growth. The tree will develop a stronger, more extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to structural training and the removal of damaged branches.
COMMON BELIEF #4: When removing a branch from a tree, the final cut should be flush with the stem to optimize healing. The old practice of pruning tree branches was to cut flush with the tree trunk. When this is done the ability of the tree to stop decay is greatly decreased. Flush-cut pruning cuts into the wood of the trunk cause a wound that can allow decay organisms to infect the main trunk of the tree. The current recommendation is to prune the branch to just outside the collar. Properly pruned branches will have a circular closure around the wound. When the branch is cut too close to the trunk, the closure will be oval or distorted.
COMMON BELIEF #5: After pruning, wounds should be dressed or painted. Research has shown that painting wounds does not prevent wood decay behind the pruning cut and may even increase the amount of wood rot by keeping the environment moist and dark.  It's better to keep the wound open to air and light.  Sometimes pruning paints are applied for cosmetic purposes.  When this is done, they should only be applied in a thin coat.
COMMON BELIEF #6: Certain fast-growing, weak-wooded trees such as silver maple and Siberian elm should be "topped" to make them less hazardous in the landscape. While topping these trees may reduce the potential hazard at first, they will likely be more dangerous in the future. Topping starves a tree by reducing the amount of leaf surface and thereby reducing the tree’s ability to manufacture food for root growth, tree health, and tree vigor. Topping also stimulates growth of twigs below the cuts. Within 2-5 years after topping a tree, it will regain its height but with weaker limbs.
COMMON BELIEF #7: If certain species of trees are pruned early in the spring, they will "bleed," stressing the tree and causing health problems. True, some trees such as maples and birches will "bleed" or lose sap from pruning cuts made early in the spring. This bleeding does not hurt the tree, and the loss of sap is inconsequential. With a few exceptions, most routine pruning can be done anytime of year. The worst time is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring. The best time is when the tree is dormant. To maximize flowering for the following year, prune just after bloom this year.
COMMON BELIEF #8: The root system of a tree is a mirror image of the top. Many people envision a large, branching taproot growing deep into the soil. Actually, taproots are very uncommon in mature trees. If taproots do develop, they usually will be forced into horizontal growth when they encounter hard subsoils beneath the surface. The entire root systems of most trees can be found within three feet of soil. The spread of the root system however, can be very extensive, often extending 2-3 times the spread of the crown.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Topping Your Trees And The Damage It Can Cause

Trees grow; there is no doubt about it. And with all of their growth comes at times, interference with overhead lines or potential breakage. Despite this possibilities, topping or cutting off the top of your tree is extremely harmful to it. This doesn't mean there aren't alternatives. If your tree needs to be trimmed back, there are pruning techniques that can be adopted and used.

So what is topping, you might ask? Topping is when one cuts tree branches or lateral branches indiscriminately. The most common reason given for topping is to reduce the size of a tree. But topping stresses a tree and can cause it to die. This happens due to the fact that when people top their trees, it often removes 50 to 100 percent of the leaf-bearing crown of a tree. Knowing leaves are the way a tree produces food, removing these important leaves can temporarily starve your tree. When one makes severe cuts to a tree, such as in topping, it forces the tree into survival. The tree then activates latent buds, forcing the rapid growth of multiple shoots below each cut. The tree then will put out a new crop of leaves as soon as possible. If a tree does not have the stored energy reserves to do so, it will be seriously weakened and may die.

When a tree weakens, it is also stressed. This can lead to vulnerability to insects and disease. The tree may lack sufficient energy to chemically defend the wounds against invasion, and some insects are actually attracted to the chemical signals trees release. Topping a tree also causes decay. Trees are designed to close wounds, if the tree is healthy and the cut isn't too big. But cuts made along a limb between lateral branches may not be able to close. This allows decay organisms a free path to move down through the branches.

If this isn't enough, topping can also exposes trees to high levels of light and heat, resulting in what is called sunburn. Sunburned trees can lead to cankers, bark splitting, and death of some branches.

When a tree is topped, the tree will also produce multiple shoots below each topping cut.
The new shoots grow quickly, as much as 20 feet in one year, in some species. If this sounds good, the problem is that these shoots are weak and prone to breaking, especially during storms.

Last, if the tree survives, it will require pruning again within a few years. This can be costly. And if the tree dies and has to be removed, this can be even more costly.
To properly take care of your tree's height, ask a professional about proper pruning techniques. If pruning involves working above the ground or using power equipment, it may be best to hire a professional arborist. An arborist can prune your tree properly to help improve its health and the safety of the trees surroundings. An arborist also has all the proper tools, equipment and crew to do the job. While it may sound cheaper to prune your own mature trees, in the long run, it may be a better investment just to hire a professional.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Preparing Your Trees For Summer Storms

Summer storms can hit hard, in desert climates they are often called monsoons and last from June to the end of September. During the storms one can see high winds, lightening and damaged trees. So how can you protect your trees from summer storms?

There are many things that can happen to a tree during a storm. To start, if there is heavy rain, a tree may be even more vulnerable when the wind follows. The reason is due to the ground being overly saturated, which can cause even a tree with healthy roots to weaken its hold. In this case, the bulk of the root system will become exposed if the tree falls over. Trying to protect your tree from falling over in a storm is difficult but there are some ways you can prepare your trees from possible damage.

FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency), states that "Three-fourths of the damage that trees incur during storms is predictable and preventable." These are the defects they say to watch out for that make trees more vulnerable to wind and other severities of the weather:

* Dead wood is unpredictable because it is brittle, and cannot give under pressure like living tree branches.
* Cracks are clear indicators of potential branch failure, where there will be splitting sooner or later.
* Look for excessive leaning, long horizontal limbs, crossing branches that rub against each other and create wounds, and narrow crotches (V-shaped instead of U-shaped). Multi-trunked trees need special attention and care. Two trunks or leaders that are of identical diameter and have a narrow crotch are not a good sign. To prevent splitting, choose one to be made dominant by stunting the growth of the other through pruning (called subordination).
* Decay, as evidenced by fungal growth or hollow cavities, is a sign of weakness.
* Pests, which can exacerbate a tree's health problems, but they typically target trees that are already sickly.
* Root problems, such as stem-girdling roots, while sometimes harder to detect, have the most impact on a tree's inability to stay upright. Weak roots and a thick canopy is the deadliest combination during a storm. Keep in mind that roots are a tree's anchor. If a significant portion of a mature tree's roots have been crushed or cut, or if the tree is still root-bound from the box it came in from the nursery before it was planted, you may consider removing the tree before the wind or weather moves it for you (without warning).
* Keeping your trees thin is the single most important thing to do to "storm-proof" them. Quite simply put: the thicker a tree is, the more susceptible it is to damage in heavy winds. Even for a tree that is otherwise perfectly healthy, overly dense foliage poses a safety hazard during stormy weather. A dense canopy will not allow the wind to easily pass through, and the resistance to wind can cause branches to break or even bring the entire tree down. This especially applies to weight at the ends of branches, which is why stripping only the lower parts of the branches is not adequate (and leaves the tree with a funny lion-tailed look).
* Plant new trees with their mature size in mind. Do not plant in shallow soils, too close to buildings or wires, or in steep banks. Some trees are more brittle and susceptible to breaking.
* Water, mulch, and fertilize the trees regularly and properly. Prevent the soil from becoming compacted.
* Prune annually (or every two to three years, depending on the variety) even while the trees are still young. Having your trees trimmed by a professional who understands healthy tree structure is your best bet for avoiding problems.
* Avoid excavating around roots. If some excavation is necessary, take measures to minimize cutting or any other impairment of the roots.
* Do not top trees! This common but incorrect practice guarantees eventual failure of branches.

Your trees will receive the best care from a Certified Arborist. An experienced arborist can quickly recognize potentially hazardous defects in a tree before they become major threats. If left to worsen, these defects can lead to branch failure, splitting, or loss of the entire tree. Keep in mind, though, that it is not only your arborist's responsibility to care for your trees. There is a lot you can do, too.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Pruning Your Mature Trees

Pruning trees can be one of the most difficult and technical tasks you take on. You prune too much, you risk the tree’s health. Too little and you haven’t done your job.

So why prune when trees in the forest do quite well without it? Although forest trees grow quite well without somebody coming along and trimming them, landscape trees require a higher level of care to maintain their safety and aesthetics. For this reason, pruning must be done with an understanding of how the tree responds to each cut. Improper pruning can cause damage that will last for the life of the tree, or worse, shorten the tree's life. Each cut has the potential to change the growth of the tree and this is why no branch should be removed without a reason.

Although seemingly risky, pruning helps your tree by removing dead branches, prevents crowding or rubbing limbs, and helps eliminate hazards. Trees may also be pruned to increase light and air penetration to the inside of the tree’s crown or to the landscape below. In most cases, mature trees are pruned as a corrective or preventive measure.

There is a difference between pruning and routine thinning. Routine thinning does not necessarily improve the health of a tree. Trees produce a dense crown of leaves to manufacture the sugar used as energy for growth and development. Removal of foliage through pruning can reduce growth and stored energy reserves. Heavy pruning can be a significant health stress for the tree.

Because people and trees have to coexist in urban or suburban settings, we sometimes have to modify the trees for the sake of all. City environments do not mimic natural forest conditions and therefore safety is a major concern. Also, we want trees to complement other landscape plantings and lawns. Proper pruning, with an understanding of tree biology, can maintain good tree health and structure while enhancing the aesthetic and economic values of our landscapes.

So when should one prune is often a common question. As a rule, growth is maximized and wound closure is fastest if pruning takes place before the spring growth flush. Some trees, such as maples and birches, tend to “bleed” if pruned early in the spring. It may be unsightly, but it is of little consequence to the tree. Otherwise, most routine pruning to remove weak, diseased, or dead limbs can be accomplished at any time during the year with little effect on the tree.

Oak wilt can be spread when pruning and wounds allow spores access into the tree. Susceptible trees such as these should not be pruned during active transmission periods.

Heavy pruning just after the spring growth flush should be avoided. At that time, trees have just expended a great deal of energy to produce foliage and early shoot growth. Removal of a large percentage of foliage at that time can stress the tree.

What are pruning terms and techniques? Cleaning is the removal of dead, dying, diseased, crowded, weakly attached, and low-vigor branches from the crown of a tree.

Thinning is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration and air movement through the crown. Thinning opens the foliage of a tree, reduces weight on heavy limbs, and helps retain the tree’s natural shape.

Raising, removes the lower branches from a tree in order to provide clearance for buildings, vehicles, pedestrians, and vistas.

Reduction reduces the size of a tree, often for clearance of utility lines. Reducing the height or spread of a tree is best accomplished by pruning back the leaders and branch terminals to lateral branches that are large enough to assume the terminal roles (at least one-third the diameter of the cut stem). Compared to topping, reduction helps maintain the form and structural integrity

A common mistake is to remove too much inner foliage and small branches. It is important to maintain an even distribution of foliage along large limbs and in the lower portion of the crown. Over thinning reduces the tree’s sugar production capacity and can create tip-heavy limbs that are prone to failure.

If you are uncomfortable in taking on the task of pruning your own trees, there are professional arborists that know just how much to prune and not to prune as well as a knowledge of proper tree and branch removal.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Tree Pruning Cuts and Techniques

Trees need pruned for a variety of reasons – whether it be for the health of the tree, for safety in regards to limbs interfering with utility wires or potentially falling, or just for the aesthetic of the tree. When pruning your tree there is a science to the procedure. Proper tree pruning cuts and techniques is vital.

To start, where should one begin to prune? Pruning cuts should be made just outside the branch collar. The branch collar contains trunk or parent branch tissue and should not be damaged or removed. If the trunk collar has grown out on a dead limb to be removed, make the cut just beyond the collar. Do not cut the collar.

If a large limb is to be removed, its weight should first be reduced. This is done by making an undercut about 12 to 18 inches from the limb’s point of attachment. Make a second cut from the top, directly above or a few inches farther out on the limb. Doing so removes the limb, leaving the 12- to 18-inch stub. Remove the stub by cutting back to the branch collar. This technique reduces the possibility of tearing the bark.

Many trees form ridges on the top and bottom of branches where they are attached to the trunk. These are called shoulder rings. Pruning cuts should be made between the center ridges of these rings. The cut will not be flush or parallel to the trunk but will be out from it slightly, with the lower edge of the cut farther away from the trunk than the top.

Such a cut will form a smaller wound than a flush cut, and callus tissue will form rapidly to cover the wound. Callus tissue should develop uniformly around the edge of the wound.

Often shoulder rings are not present at branch attachments. The cutting position can be approximated by envisioning a line connecting the point bisecting the top angle of the crotch and a similar point bisecting the lower angle of attachment.

The structural features of a tree may be emphasized by moderate thinning to reduce density. The structure of dogwood, ginkgo and others can be maintained in the landscape by moderate thinning out.

Homeowners often attempt to control the size of trees by pruning. It is best to prune the tree as it begins to reach the desired height. Delaying pruning until the tree is much larger than you want it makes pruning more difficult and pruning cuts harder to hide, and it encourages excessive regrowth.

Thinning-out pruning can be used to reduce the height and spread of a tree. Cut branches to lower laterals (drop crotching). Some limbs may be removed completely. A thinned tree retains its natural shape and is less subject to vigorous water sprouts than a headed or topped tree.

Topping (heading back) is, unfortunately, the most common method of reducing tree size. It is more rapid than thinning, but the results are, in most cases, much less desirable. Regrowth is vigorous and upright from the stubs. The new branches form a compact head and broom-like terminals, and they may be weakly attached to older branches.

Bleeding of pruning wounds can be heavy on certain trees, such as birch, dogwood, sugar maples and elms. Bleeding of susceptible trees can be minimized by making small cuts--less than 3 inches in diameter--and pruning in summer. Bleeding is much more likely if severe pruning is done just before growth begins in the spring. Bleeding doesn't harm the tree, but if it's heavy and persistent, it may injure the bark below the pruning cut and cause slow callusing of the lower wound.

If large limbs need to be removed or if you can't reach the limbs that need pruning, secure the services of a professional landscape manager. Landscape managers are trained in the art of pruning to retain the natural beauty of trees.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Caring For Your Mature Trees

Trees can live for years, even hundreds of years. The oak or walnut can live as long as 200 to 300 years. This means these trees could be witness to up three or four generations of people. A tree of this age has great value and in that also requires great care.

With a little preventative care, your trees can last as long as this. And remember that curing a problem once it develops is much more difficult, time-consuming and costly than preventing one. So isn’t it worthwhile to give your trees regular maintenance to ensure that they are able to offer enjoyment and value for generations to come? If so, lets look at what kind of care a tree needs so that it can grow old graciously.

1. Tree Inspection – To start with your tree’s personal care, you should first have an inspection by a certified professional arborist. Tree inspection is an evaluation tool that will help determine whether the tree is in good or bad health or on the brink of anything disastrous. By providing regular inspections of your trees at least once a year, you can prevent or reduce the severity of future disease, insect, and environmental problems. A professional will evaluate your mature tree for four characteristics of tree vigor: new leaves or buds, leaf size, twig growth, and absence of crown dieback (gradual death of the upper part of the tree).

Any abnormalities found during these inspections, including insect activity and spotted, deformed, discolored, or dead leaves and twigs, will be noted and watched closely. The Arborist or other tree care professional will be able to determine the best solution for the tree’s condition.

2. Mulching - Mulching cools and contains moisture around the tree, which in turn can reduce environmental stress. Mulch can also prevent mechanical damage by keeping machines such as lawn mowers and string trimmers away from the tree’s base.

Mulch should be placed 2 to 4 inches deep around the tree and cover the entire root system, which may be as far as 2 or 3 times the diameter of the branch spread of the tree. If the area and activities happening around the tree do not permit the entire area to be mulched, it is recommended that you mulch as much of the area under the drip line of the tree as possible. When placing mulch, try not to cover the actual trunk of the tree.

3. Fertilization - Trees require certain nutrients (essential elements) to function and grow.
Fertilizing a tree can improve growth; however, if fertilizer is not applied wisely, it may not benefit the tree at all and may even adversely affect the tree. Mature trees making satisfactory growth may not require fertilization. When considering supplemental fertilizer, it is important to know which nutrients are needed and when and how they should be applied.

Soil conditions, especially pH and organic matter content, vary greatly, making the proper selection and use of fertilizer a somewhat complex process. When dealing with a mature tree that provides considerable benefit and value to your landscape, it is worth the time and investment to have the soil tested for nutrient content. Any arborist can arrange to have your soil tested at a soil testing laboratory and can give advice on application rates, timing, and the best blend of fertilizer for each of your trees and other landscape plants.

4. Pruning - Pruning is the most common tree maintenance procedure next to watering. Pruning is often desirable or necessary to remove dead, diseased, or insect-infested branches and to improve tree structure, enhance vigor, or maintain safety. Because each cut has the potential to change the growth of (or cause damage to) a tree, no branch should be removed without a reason.

Removing foliage from a tree has two distinct effects on its growth. Removing leaves reduces photosynthesis and may reduce overall growth. That is why pruning should always be performed sparingly. Over pruning is extremely harmful because without enough leaves, a tree cannot gather and process enough sunlight to survive. However, after pruning, the growth that does occur takes place on fewer shoots, so they tend to grow longer than they would without pruning. Understanding how the tree responds to pruning should assist you when selecting branches for removal.

Maintaining your trees into old age just requires a little patience and care, just like anything. In the end, you will have a beautiful and healthy addition to your landscape and life.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Trees and Invasive species

If you are trying to grow the perfect tree, or at least a healthy and beautiful tree, battling invasive species or potential invasive species can be a challenge.

An invasive species, also called a pathogen, can infect a tree anywhere from the stem to the branches and quickly kill the bark in a spreading canker. These pathogens reproduce rapidly with a huge a numbers of spores. The spores can be shot into the air and carried by the wind, or carried by the splash of a raindrop, a bird or insect.

Non-native, invasive species constitute one of the greatest economic and environmental challenges in the history of the United States natural and managed ecosystems. Non-native plants and plant pests cost more than $100 billion per year in crop and timber losses plus the expense of herbicides and pesticides. Types of invasive species include:
* chestnut blight * sudden oak death * white pine blister rust * beech bark disease * dutch elm disease * butternut canker * Port-Orford-Cedar root disease * dogwood anthracnose

It is difficult to recognize tree diseases because the organisms responsible are small and not easily detected in the early disease stages. Once a problem is recognized, the disease is often in an advanced stage, limiting an arborist’s treatment options. Some diseases can kill trees in a short period of time (oak wilt infections); others are long-term chronic diseases (nectria canker).

Some diseases do not usually cause serious damage to trees (powdery mildew), while others can virtually eliminate an entire tree species (chestnut blight, Dutch elm disease). Harmful, parasitic bacteria cause a number of plant diseases. Damage from bacteria can be limited to leaves (shot hole disease) or the bacteria can infect and destroy the vascular system of the tree (bacterial leaf scorch), eventually causing tree death.

A tree owner may first notice a problem with their tree when leaves in a section of the crown begin showing signs of wilting or scorching. Arborists can pick up on more subtle clues. Often an upper portion of the crown shows signs first. With verticillium wilt, one limb or a group of limbs show signs of a problem before the rest of the tree. Other symptoms to look for include: trees of the same species that express themselves differently; wilting or scorching leaves; leaves smaller than normal in one section or the whole tree; early fall color in one section of the tree or the whole tree; dieback of twigs and limbs; reduced shoot growth; leaf discoloration; stress-induced production of numerous small cones or fruit of poor quality; and heavy resin or gum flows.

Extensive dieback and death can occur rapidly in the case of Dutch elm disease, oak wilt of red oaks, or blue-stain wilt of shortleaf and loblolly pines. In the case of bacterial leaf scorch, oak wilt of white oaks, and verticillium wilt, damage occurs more slowly and often can be controlled. When a tree has been infected, a professional arborist can assess treatment protocols and advise techniques for mitigating damage or avoiding a repeat of the infection.

Of course, the best way to avoid tree diseases is to keep trees healthy, which makes them less susceptible. Insects that spread diseases are attracted to trees that are stressed and have a weakened defense system.

A professional arborist can assess and maintain a landscape, ensuring proper soil fertility and watering practices to promote plant health and minimize the effects of stress on plants. Arborists can also help diagnose and mitigate other causes of poor growth or decline, such as poor site conditions or mechanical, environmental, and chemical injuries.

Like anything, sometimes it is important to call in a professional to help and this includes tree disease as well.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Should I Hire an Arborist: Austin Tree Service

Hiring an arborist is a very good idea if you want to try to save a tree. An arborist will have the knowledge to help save a tree or tell you honestly if it must be removed. A regular tree trimming service or tree removal company may only be interested in the fee that they will receive for removing the tree. In today’s day and age, it is more important than ever to try to save the trees that we have. Hiring an arborist is the best way to ensure that you have done everything possible to save a tree.
An arborist is sometimes called a tree doctor or tree surgeon. Arborists are extensively trained in tree diseases, growth problems, insect control, and tree fungi. Arborists are equipped to manage and advise in the most complicated tree situations. Arborists are scientists with specific expertise in tree management.
There are many tree trimming and tree removal companies out there that do not hire a certified arborist to consult in their business. Certified arborists have a certification accredited by the International Society of Arboriculture. These people are dedicated to saving trees and doing everything possible to ensure that trees are not removed unless they absolutely need to be.
An arborist is also trained in the maintenance and care of other woody plants that may be a part of your landscaping. An arborist will have the knowledge to work on large areas of trees and give advice regarding the entire ecosystem of trees and wooded plants in a specific area. They are also extensively trained in transplanting trees safely. They will assist in the proper location and technique for planting new trees on your property, as well as what types of trees will do best in your area.
Arborists know how to treat different kinds of diseases, pests and parasites. An arborist is the best person you can hire for tree trimming or removal as well. Trimming involves a lot more than just sawing off unwanted limbs. The exact location of the cut and knowing exactly what limbs to cut to ensure the tree grows in the shape and direction that you desire, is something that an arborist can offer. This knowledge is specifically valuable in Austin, Texas where mature trees can be scarce and every effort to maintain and save them must be made. If you are looking for an Austin tree service to maintain and save your trees, be sure that they employ a certified arborist to do the job.

About the Author: Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.