Identifying Frost Crack On Your Trees

If you have ever heard what sounds like gunfire go off in the dead of winter and it isn't hunting season, it could be the sound of tree bark cracking. Frost crack is not a drug, but an occurrence distinct in thin barked trees, deciduous trees and trees that stand isolated rather than in groups or stands.

This isn't to say other types of trees don't develop frost crack. Trees that grow quickly and vigorously are more apt to develop frost cracks than very young or old trees. One can also find trees with frost crack that have some sort of weakness in the bark, which occurred to the tree earlier.

When and why does frost crack occur? Typically in late winter or early spring due to water building up within the tree's inner bark or xylem. As the wood expands and contracts with significantly fluctuating temperatures and the bark does not contract at the same rate as the inner phloem, cracking occurs.

Trees that are growing in poorly drained sites are more subject to frost cracking than are those growing in drier, better drained soils. Trees suddenly left exposed by felling are highly susceptible as well.

Frost cracks can be up to several feet long. You may not notice the cracks until spring and they are typically on the southwest side of the tree. Some cracks heals n the summer and then reopen again in the winter. If cracking and healing reoccurs the tree can develop frost ribs.


The wood beneath the frost crack is rarely damaged but the cracks can serve as sites of entry for wood decay organisms, including insects, fungi and bacteria. Timber damaged in this way is unsuitable for use in buildings, etc.


The sloughing or peeling of the bark is a normal process, especially in the spring when the tree begins to grow. The outer layers of the bark are dead tissue and therefore they cannot grow, the outer bark splitting in order for the tree to grow in circumference, increasing its diameter. The inner bark cambium and phloem tissues are living, and form a new protective layer of cells as the outer bark pulls apart. Most tree species try to seal the edges of wounds by forming a callus layer. The wound’s edges begin to form this callus during the first growing season after that crack appears and the callus layer will continue to grow and after many years, the wound may close over entirely.


Normal furrowed bark has a layer of bark over the wood below, however bark may peel or fall off the tree in sheets (river birch), plates (sycamore and pine), strips (cedar) or blocks (dogwood).

To reduce frost crack, avoid using fertilizers late in the growing season. Also, protect your trees from physical damage that can occur from lawn mowers, trimmers car bumpers, grazing animals, spades, etc. You can protect young trees in winter with paper tree wrap. Wrap your tree from ground level to the first main branches.

Trees most susceptible to frost cracking are: apple, crabapple, beech, cherry, golden-rain tree, horsechestnut, London planetree, some maples, pin Oak, tulip Tree, walnut, and willow. With the proper knowledge of what frost crack is and a few preventative measures, it is possible to try and protect your trees throughout the winter.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Are Deer Eating Your Trees

The deer population in many states is rampant and as humans encroach more on the wildlife and their grazing grounds, it is no wonder there is a problem with the mix. It isn't uncommon to see deer wondering into residential areas looking for food and this can mean munching on your trees and destroying your yard.

Deer can cause damage to your trees, garden and yard in many ways. Deer love to feed on leaves, stems, flowers, and bark, and while they are searching for such goodies, they often crush plants and flowers with their hooves. In addition, male deer often rub their antlers on tree trunks, causing bark to shed and trunks to splinter or split. This type damage often occurs during the fall season between the months of September and November.

How can you tell it is deer that has caused the damage to your trees? Searching for evidence and clues will help you know for certain what it is that has been nosing around your yard. The first thing to search for are track marks. Deer hoof prints are generally 3 to 4 inches in length. Another sign to look for are deer droppings. Deer droppings are pellet-like, elongated and may appear in clumps. If you notice that the branches and twigs in your garden are rough and shredded, rather than bitten with a clean cut, it is likely that deer are the culprit. They are not equipped with sharp upper incisors, so deer feeding on trees results in tattered-looking branches. Deer usually feed in the early hours of the morning. Damage can be more severe in areas with a high deer population and scarce food sources.

What kinds of trees do deer prefer? Their favorite include the following:

• White Cedar (Arbor Vitae) - Evergreen with flat scalelike "leaves." Some varieties used for ornamental shrubbery. A swamp tree but it can grow on moist upland. In many areas browsing deer have eaten practically all cedar within reach.

• White Pine - Young trees have smooth dark green bark. Deer will eat white pine before they take other pines.

• Maples - Trees with buds opposite each other Sugar maple has brownish or gray twigs with brown pointed buds. Red maple has red twigs and reddish rounded buds and is better deer food.

• Yellow Birch - The bark of young tree , and twigs is brownish turning yellowish-gray and curling up when older. Pointed buds. Twigs taste like wintergreen. Young yellow birch looks like ironwood (a poor deer food), but ironwood has no wintergreen taste.

• Dogwoods and Viburnums - Shrubs that generally have opposite buds like maples. Red dogwood has bright red twigs. Other species have reddish green, brown, or gray twigs. Viburnum buds are many different shapes.

• Sumac - Shrub commonly found in old fields and forest openings. Heavy, stiff, brown twigs and branches. One kind is fuzzy and resembles antlers in velvet. Another kind is smooth. Bunches of fuzzy red fruit at the top of all sumac plants.


Deer will also eat other trees when moderately hungry, they include:
• Aspen - This tree is, also called "popple" or "poplar" and is one of the most common Michigan trees. Trembling aspen has whitish, greenish gray bark and long pointed shiny buds Big toothed aspen has yellow green bark and fatter, fuzzy buds. Balm of Gilead (a poor deer food) looks similar, but has gray-green bark with bin sticky end buds and grows in wet areas.

• Jack Pine - A small needled tree. Needles, 2 in a bundle are 1 to 1 ½ inches long. Young stands provide good winter cover, but only fair deer food.

• Oaks - Buds at ends of twigs are clustered and only moderate in food value, but acorns provide excellent deer food.

• Ash - Green to light brownish gray, stiff, smooth stems with opposite, dark brown and black buds. Side buds close to end bud. Black ash is a swamp species. White ash prefers upland sites.

• White Birch - This is the common "paper" or "canoe" birch. Bark on young stems is a shiny orange brown color that gradually turns white and "papery."

• Witch-Hazel - Look for the unusual-shaped light brown buds. Yellow crinkly flowers can be seen in the fall along the sterns.


There are some plants and trees that are said to be more deer resistant than others, but when faced with starvation deer will likely eat anything that is available. To help protect your yard, you may consider constructing a physical barrier around your property, such as a high fence, but this can often be prohibitively expensive as well as unsightly. When used properly, repellents can be effective ways to keep deer away from your plants. Some people make a mix that includes Cayenne pepper to sprinkle on their trees and shrubs. There are also commercial products one can use. Hopefully one or all of the above mentioned deterrents will help you protect your trees for future and healthy growth.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Scheduling Tree Maintenance

Waiting for your mature trees to become damaged or to damage other person's property probably isn't the best time to design a maintenance plan. Scheduling tree maintenance for mature trees is crucial, before there is damage.

So what types of maintenance items should be on your tree schedule? Below are items used by public agencies for their trees, which could easily be put on a private individuals tree maintenance schedule as well.

1. Crown cleaning - Remove dead, dying, diseased, crowded, weakly attached, and low vigor branches and watersprouts from the tree crown.

2. Crown thinning - Remove branches to increase light penetration and air movement into the crown. Greater light and air movement stimulates and maintains interior foliage, which improves branch taper and strength. Thinning reduces the wind-sail effect of the crown and the weight of heavy limbs. Thinning the crown can emphasize the structural beauty of the trunk and branches, as well as improve the growth of plants beneath the tree by increasing the light penetration.

When thinning the crown of mature trees, no more than one-quarter of the foliage should be removed. At least one-half of the remaining foliage should grow from branches that originate in the lower two-thirds of the tree.


3. Crown reduction - This is also known as drop-crotching and it decreases the height and spread of a tree. Thinning cuts will maintain the structural integrity and natural form of a tree, and delay the time when it will need to be pruned again. To make this type of cut, prune the branch back to its point of attachment or to a lateral that is at least one-half the diameter of the cut being made.



4. Crown restoration- This type of pruning improves the structure and appearance of trees that have been topped or severely pruned using heading cuts. Select one to three main branch stubs that will grow to reform a more natural looking crown. Thinning or even heading may be required to match the weight of the new branches with the strength of their attachment. Restoration may require several prunings over a number of years.



5. Crown raising - This type of pruning is important if your trees are in urban areas as it provides clearance for buildings, vehicles, pedestrians, and vistas by removing lower branches. It is important to maintain at least one-half of the tree's foliage on branches that originate in the lower two-thirds of the crown. This ensures a well-formed, tapered structure and uniformly distributed stress. When pruning for view, it's better to open "windows" through the foliage of the tree, rather than severely raising or reducing the crown.

6. Insect and Disease Control. Trees under stress are much more susceptible to attack by harmful insects and diseases and are more likely to exhibit symptoms of the adverse environment. Examine trees on a regular basis-whether or not a significant problem currently exists. These examinations help identify problems sooner, by providing a history of the plants that serves as a point of comparison when a serious problem develops.
Several types of local authorities are available for technical assistance. For free advice call on the county cooperative extension service, agricultural commissioners office and municipal parks or forestry offices. Information is also available for a nominal fee from local retail nurseries, tree services, pest control contractors or arboricultural and horticultural consultants.


7. Fertilization and Aeration - The physical, chemical, and biological conditions of the soil may need to be managed just as elements of the trees' above-ground environment are managed. Trees need adequate amounts of nutrients, water and air in the soil. Without these elements trees will grow with less vigor and will be more susceptible to secondary problems, such as attack from insects and diseases. Properly nourished trees will be more able to withstand the attack of insects and diseases and tolerate the adverse growing environment afforded by most urban situations.


Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Gypsy Moths and Trees

It's hard to believe that a small moth can be so deadly to something as hardy and large as a tree and yet the gypsy moth is one of North America's most devastating forest pests.
What does the gypsy moth primarily feed on? Typically its most common hosts are oaks and aspen but they have been known to feed on the foliage of hundreds of species of plants in North America with the highest concentrations of host trees are in the southern Appalachians, the Ozarks, and in the northern Lake States.
This moth becomes powerful due to its numbers. It lays its eggs in masses, typically on branches and trunks of tree. The egg clusters are buff in color when first laid but may bleach out over the winter months when exposed to direct sunlight and weathering. Egg clusters contain from a couple of hundred to about 1200 eggs, although some batches may be as small as 50 eggs. Gypsy moths are dispersed in two ways; the first is through wind carrying newly hatched larvae hanging from host trees on silken threads. Larvae can travel for up to one mile with eggs carried even longer distances. Artificial dispersal occurs when people accidentally transport gypsy moth eggs thousands of miles from infested areas on cars and recreational vehicles, firewood, household goods, and other personal possessions. Females are flightless in most varieties, so these are the only means of spreading.
Tree damage is caused when the insect larvae, or caterpillars, emerge from their eggs to the leaves of trees and begin to eat them. The feeding occurs mostly at night. The gypsy moth caterpillar has a special preference for the leaves of deciduous hardwood trees such as maple, elm, and particularly oak.  They can also feed on apple, alder, birch, poplar and willow trees.  As the moth grows it will also attack evergreens like pines and spruces.  Gypsy moths appear to dislike ashes, sycamores, butternuts, black walnuts, dogwoods and balsams.  However, during heavy infestations, competition for food will drive the caterpillar to attack almost any tree or shrub.
Depending on the degree of infestation, tree damage ranges from light to almost complete defoliation.  Most deciduous trees can survive a moderate degree of defoliation.  Many can even survive one complete defoliation by the gypsy moth caterpillar.  However, continuing attacks can fatally weaken a tree or leave it vulnerable to other insects or disease. The condition of the tree at the time it is defoliated, the number of consecutive defoliations, available soil moisture, and the species of host will determine if the tree continues to live or dies. If less than 50 percent of their crown is defoliated, most hardwoods will experience only a slight reduction (or loss) in radial growth. If more than 50 percent of their crown is defoliated, most hardwoods will refoliate or produce a second flush of foliage by midsummer. Healthy trees can usually withstand one or two consecutive defoliations of greater than 50 percent. Trees that have been weakened by previous defoliation or been subjected to other stresses such as droughts are frequently killed after a single defoliation of more than 50 percent.
A number of tactics have the potential to minimize damage from gypsy moth infestations and to contain or maintain gypsy moth populations at levels considered tolerable. These tactics include monitoring gypsy moth populations, maintaining the health and vigor of trees, discouraging gypsy moth survival, and treating with insecticides to kill larvae and protect tree foliage. The tactic or combination of tactics used will depend on the condition of the site and of the tree or stand and the level of the gypsy moth population.
Yes, believe it or not this small insect can cause this much damage. If you think your trees have been infested by gypsy moths, call your local agricultural cooperative agency or arborist to find out what you can do to stop the damage.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Misinformation About Tree Care

When it comes to caring for our trees, many of us rely on information passed down to us from our family or friends. The problem with this is that many times this information can be wrong and many do not find out until it is too late. So what are some common beliefs about trees that aren't true?
COMMON BELIEF #1: Securely stake your new tree when planting it so that it develops stable root system and strong trunk. Staking trees can be necessary at times just to keep them upright and to let them get established when first planted, but professionals have discovered that unstaked trees tend to develop a more extensive root system and better trunk taper than those that are staked. Allowing a small amount of movement can help root and trunk development. Of course, the worst effect of staking is the possibility of trunk damage from the staking wires or ties. Staking materials usually should be removed after one year to avoid "girdling" the tree.
COMMON BELIEF #2: You should wrap your tree trunks to prevent insect entry or sunscald. Generations of people have been wrapping their tree trunks for years, sometimes with kraft paper.  Studies using most common tree wraps have shown that they do not prevent extreme fluctuations in temperature on the bark. In some cases, the temperature extremes are worse. Also, tree wraps have proven quite ineffective in preventing insect entry. In fact, some insects like to burrow under it. If you feel an absolute need to protect your thinbarked trees, such as ash, birch, linden or maple, a loose fitting tree guard in a light-reflective color would be better than a trunk wrap. 
As with tree staking, trunk guards should be inspected periodically to make sure they aren’t restricting the trunk.  Most guards can be removed six to twelve months after the tree is planted.  Always remove wraps that come with a new tree.  It was there to protect the bark during transport.
COMMON BELIEF #3: Pruning trees heavily compensates for the loss of roots. Although pruning the top can reduce the amount of water that evaporates from the leaves, the tree needs a full crown to produce the much-needed food and the plant hormones that induce root growth. The tree will develop a stronger, more extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to structural training and the removal of damaged branches.
COMMON BELIEF #4: When removing a branch from a tree, the final cut should be flush with the stem to optimize healing. The old practice of pruning tree branches was to cut flush with the tree trunk. When this is done the ability of the tree to stop decay is greatly decreased. Flush-cut pruning cuts into the wood of the trunk cause a wound that can allow decay organisms to infect the main trunk of the tree. The current recommendation is to prune the branch to just outside the collar. Properly pruned branches will have a circular closure around the wound. When the branch is cut too close to the trunk, the closure will be oval or distorted.
COMMON BELIEF #5: After pruning, wounds should be dressed or painted. Research has shown that painting wounds does not prevent wood decay behind the pruning cut and may even increase the amount of wood rot by keeping the environment moist and dark.  It's better to keep the wound open to air and light.  Sometimes pruning paints are applied for cosmetic purposes.  When this is done, they should only be applied in a thin coat.
COMMON BELIEF #6: Certain fast-growing, weak-wooded trees such as silver maple and Siberian elm should be "topped" to make them less hazardous in the landscape. While topping these trees may reduce the potential hazard at first, they will likely be more dangerous in the future. Topping starves a tree by reducing the amount of leaf surface and thereby reducing the tree’s ability to manufacture food for root growth, tree health, and tree vigor. Topping also stimulates growth of twigs below the cuts. Within 2-5 years after topping a tree, it will regain its height but with weaker limbs.
COMMON BELIEF #7: If certain species of trees are pruned early in the spring, they will "bleed," stressing the tree and causing health problems. True, some trees such as maples and birches will "bleed" or lose sap from pruning cuts made early in the spring. This bleeding does not hurt the tree, and the loss of sap is inconsequential. With a few exceptions, most routine pruning can be done anytime of year. The worst time is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring. The best time is when the tree is dormant. To maximize flowering for the following year, prune just after bloom this year.
COMMON BELIEF #8: The root system of a tree is a mirror image of the top. Many people envision a large, branching taproot growing deep into the soil. Actually, taproots are very uncommon in mature trees. If taproots do develop, they usually will be forced into horizontal growth when they encounter hard subsoils beneath the surface. The entire root systems of most trees can be found within three feet of soil. The spread of the root system however, can be very extensive, often extending 2-3 times the spread of the crown.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Proper Mulching Techniques

Mulching around your trees provides a good way to conserve moisture for your tree and keep plants healthy. Trees lose moisture from evaporation, mulching can conserve between 10 to 25 percent. They also help keep the soil well aerated by reducing soil compaction that results when raindrops hit the soil. Having the soil aerated in turn then reduces runoff and erosion. Mulch also helps keep the soil healthy, preventing possible fungi from causing soil-borne diseases.

Because trees sustain a lot of damage from lawn mowing and weed trimmers, adding mulch around the base of your trees can help reduce this damage. Professionals suggest a 2- to 4-inch layer. This will also help prevent most weeds from growing.

When applying your mulch, try and cover as much of the root zone as possible. The mulched area should extend at least 3 to 6 feet out from the base of the plant. Some suggest not putting the mulch right up against the base of the tree, leaving 1 to 2 inches - this can help prevent bark decay.

As far as how much mulch depth to build around your tree, this will depend on the type of soil surrounding it. Sandy soils dry out quickly and often benefit from a slightly deeper mulch layer (3 to 4 inches). A site that stays moist may not benefit from mulching at all.

You can apply your mulch any time of the year, but the most ideal is in late spring after the soil has warmed. Early spring application will delay soil warming and possibly plant growth. You do not have to remove the mulch when you fertilize, just apply the fertilizer over the mulch and the nutrients will move with water to the roots below.

In regards to what you can use for mulch, there are many materials out there - each with their advantages and disadvantages. Organic materials used for mulch should be weed-free. Some of the best organic materials include pine bark nuggets, pine straw, and compost. Pine straw looks nice and will remain in place better than most other materials but Pine bark lasts longer and can be washed with a heavy rain. Bark used as mulch should contain less than 10 percent wood fiber.

Other organic materials that are sometimes used as mulch include wheat straw, shredded newspaper, peanut hulls, wood chips, sawdust, and partially decomposed leaves. Any fresh, light-colored, unweathered organic mulch will tie up nitrogen during the early stages of decomposition.

Non-shredded leaves and grass clippings can form a thick mat that makes water penetration nearly impossible. If sawdust is used it should be well aged, otherwise it will be difficult for water to move into the soil. Uncomposted sawdust is low in nitrogen and will rob nitrogen from the soil as it decomposes.


With inorganic mulches, which include various types of stone, lava rock, pulverized rubber, geotextile fabrics, and other materials - they do not decompose and do not need to be replenished often. On the other hand, they do not improve soil structure, add organic materials, or provide nutrients. For these reasons, most horticulturists and arborists prefer organic mulches.

Mulching has many benefits to keeping your tree healthy and strong. If you have questions about the types of mulch to apply, ask your local arborist or even gardening center.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Topping Your Trees And The Damage It Can Cause

Trees grow; there is no doubt about it. And with all of their growth comes at times, interference with overhead lines or potential breakage. Despite this possibilities, topping or cutting off the top of your tree is extremely harmful to it. This doesn't mean there aren't alternatives. If your tree needs to be trimmed back, there are pruning techniques that can be adopted and used.

So what is topping, you might ask? Topping is when one cuts tree branches or lateral branches indiscriminately. The most common reason given for topping is to reduce the size of a tree. But topping stresses a tree and can cause it to die. This happens due to the fact that when people top their trees, it often removes 50 to 100 percent of the leaf-bearing crown of a tree. Knowing leaves are the way a tree produces food, removing these important leaves can temporarily starve your tree. When one makes severe cuts to a tree, such as in topping, it forces the tree into survival. The tree then activates latent buds, forcing the rapid growth of multiple shoots below each cut. The tree then will put out a new crop of leaves as soon as possible. If a tree does not have the stored energy reserves to do so, it will be seriously weakened and may die.

When a tree weakens, it is also stressed. This can lead to vulnerability to insects and disease. The tree may lack sufficient energy to chemically defend the wounds against invasion, and some insects are actually attracted to the chemical signals trees release. Topping a tree also causes decay. Trees are designed to close wounds, if the tree is healthy and the cut isn't too big. But cuts made along a limb between lateral branches may not be able to close. This allows decay organisms a free path to move down through the branches.

If this isn't enough, topping can also exposes trees to high levels of light and heat, resulting in what is called sunburn. Sunburned trees can lead to cankers, bark splitting, and death of some branches.

When a tree is topped, the tree will also produce multiple shoots below each topping cut.
The new shoots grow quickly, as much as 20 feet in one year, in some species. If this sounds good, the problem is that these shoots are weak and prone to breaking, especially during storms.

Last, if the tree survives, it will require pruning again within a few years. This can be costly. And if the tree dies and has to be removed, this can be even more costly.
To properly take care of your tree's height, ask a professional about proper pruning techniques. If pruning involves working above the ground or using power equipment, it may be best to hire a professional arborist. An arborist can prune your tree properly to help improve its health and the safety of the trees surroundings. An arborist also has all the proper tools, equipment and crew to do the job. While it may sound cheaper to prune your own mature trees, in the long run, it may be a better investment just to hire a professional.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Tree Stressors and Tree Decline

People aren't the only living thing that can get stressed - trees can too. In fact, tree stress is a serious problem that not only causes significant damage to your trees but also can kill them.

So what causes trees to get stressed? The first is environment. Just like humans, the environment we are surrounded by affects trees. Stressful environmental conditions such as extreme temperatures, poor soil, and physical damage to leaves, bark and roots can predispose a tree to secondary insect and disease attacks. Extremely wet soil can also stress a tree as can soil compaction and freezing.

Trees are also surprisingly affected by other conditions that are caused by man or animal. For example, lawnmowers are one of the major causes of damage to trees. Improper pruning also stresses trees. Too much pruning or pruning during the wrong time of year can harm your tree more than help it. Over watering trees also causes trees great stress, just as flooding or too much rain could. Frequent watering results in roots that are too wet for good growth.

Other human caused stresses are improper handling before planting your tree, construction damage and the use of deicing salts or herbicides. Tree wounds caused by humans can also make your tree quite susceptible to outside influences and therefore make the tree deteriorate over a period of time.

The problem with tree stress is that from the human eye, you may not recognize that your tree is stressed right away. Of course there is obvious stress such as that caused from storms, but the small stresses are also very critical to a trees survival as well. Trees often do not display immediate responses to stresses because of their accumulated growth habit. But when your tree is stressed you will begin to notice that it will change. In some cases, the process of photosynthesis, which is the primary supply of carbohydrates for all tree functions, is reduced and the tree’s stored food reserves are depleted. And if the root systems are also damaged, the tree will be unable to produce sufficient carbohydrates and growth regulating chemicals.

Symptoms of distress will begin to show as your tree deteriorates. The leaves may decrease in number and become smaller in size. Some trees will produce excess fruit or seed - this is its way of trying to survive. Branches will begin to die, and the root system of the tree becomes reduced. From here the tree will continue to decline until the eventual death of the tree, which can take from 2 to 15 years. For many trees, once the decline has reached a certain point, it cannot recover.

If the actual physical stressors to the tree don't kill it, the reduced strength of the tree will leave it vulnerable to disease and insects. The addition of these elements can speed up the trees decline.

Trees in urban areas are often stressed more than those that are in rural areas - this is due to restricted root space, building foundations, streets, driveways and other obstacles that limit the expansion of tree roots and significantly reduce the amount of water and minerals available to the tree. Compacted soils and competition also stresses urban trees.

If you feel your tree has been recently stressed, consult with your local tree professional or arborist for some proactive measures you can take. Trees can be quite resilient and with a little care, they can potentially make a full recovery.


Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Preparing Your Trees For Summer Storms

Summer storms can hit hard, in desert climates they are often called monsoons and last from June to the end of September. During the storms one can see high winds, lightening and damaged trees. So how can you protect your trees from summer storms?

There are many things that can happen to a tree during a storm. To start, if there is heavy rain, a tree may be even more vulnerable when the wind follows. The reason is due to the ground being overly saturated, which can cause even a tree with healthy roots to weaken its hold. In this case, the bulk of the root system will become exposed if the tree falls over. Trying to protect your tree from falling over in a storm is difficult but there are some ways you can prepare your trees from possible damage.

FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency), states that "Three-fourths of the damage that trees incur during storms is predictable and preventable." These are the defects they say to watch out for that make trees more vulnerable to wind and other severities of the weather:

* Dead wood is unpredictable because it is brittle, and cannot give under pressure like living tree branches.
* Cracks are clear indicators of potential branch failure, where there will be splitting sooner or later.
* Look for excessive leaning, long horizontal limbs, crossing branches that rub against each other and create wounds, and narrow crotches (V-shaped instead of U-shaped). Multi-trunked trees need special attention and care. Two trunks or leaders that are of identical diameter and have a narrow crotch are not a good sign. To prevent splitting, choose one to be made dominant by stunting the growth of the other through pruning (called subordination).
* Decay, as evidenced by fungal growth or hollow cavities, is a sign of weakness.
* Pests, which can exacerbate a tree's health problems, but they typically target trees that are already sickly.
* Root problems, such as stem-girdling roots, while sometimes harder to detect, have the most impact on a tree's inability to stay upright. Weak roots and a thick canopy is the deadliest combination during a storm. Keep in mind that roots are a tree's anchor. If a significant portion of a mature tree's roots have been crushed or cut, or if the tree is still root-bound from the box it came in from the nursery before it was planted, you may consider removing the tree before the wind or weather moves it for you (without warning).
* Keeping your trees thin is the single most important thing to do to "storm-proof" them. Quite simply put: the thicker a tree is, the more susceptible it is to damage in heavy winds. Even for a tree that is otherwise perfectly healthy, overly dense foliage poses a safety hazard during stormy weather. A dense canopy will not allow the wind to easily pass through, and the resistance to wind can cause branches to break or even bring the entire tree down. This especially applies to weight at the ends of branches, which is why stripping only the lower parts of the branches is not adequate (and leaves the tree with a funny lion-tailed look).
* Plant new trees with their mature size in mind. Do not plant in shallow soils, too close to buildings or wires, or in steep banks. Some trees are more brittle and susceptible to breaking.
* Water, mulch, and fertilize the trees regularly and properly. Prevent the soil from becoming compacted.
* Prune annually (or every two to three years, depending on the variety) even while the trees are still young. Having your trees trimmed by a professional who understands healthy tree structure is your best bet for avoiding problems.
* Avoid excavating around roots. If some excavation is necessary, take measures to minimize cutting or any other impairment of the roots.
* Do not top trees! This common but incorrect practice guarantees eventual failure of branches.

Your trees will receive the best care from a Certified Arborist. An experienced arborist can quickly recognize potentially hazardous defects in a tree before they become major threats. If left to worsen, these defects can lead to branch failure, splitting, or loss of the entire tree. Keep in mind, though, that it is not only your arborist's responsibility to care for your trees. There is a lot you can do, too.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

A Trees Need For Nutrients

If you own trees or plan on planting trees – understanding their need for nutrients is vital. All trees require the right amount of nutrients to live and thrive. If even one or more of these nutrients are deficient in the soil, the tree will not reach its full landscape potential, will be more susceptible to disease and insect problems, and will have a shorter life than a similar, well-fertilized tree.

To understand the nutrients trees need, one first looks out how these nutrients are divided into two groups: macronutrients and micronutrients, based upon the quantity necessary for growth. Macronutrients are required by plants in larger quantities than micronutrients. Macronutrients include nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K), calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), and sulfur (S).

Micronutrients, which are required in very small amounts, include iron (Fe), manganese (Mn), zinc (Zn), copper (Cu), boron (B), chlorine (Cl), and molybdenum (Mo).

Many fertilizers are designed with the right amount of nutrients in the right proportions, which helps to take the guesswork out of fertilizing. All fertilizer labels indicate the amount of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium contained in the product by percent. These labels also indicate the weight of these nutrients per 100 pounds of product. For example, 100 pounds of a fertilizer marked 10-8-6 contains 10 pounds of nitrogen in various forms [eg. ammonium (NH4) or nitrate (NO3)], 8 pounds of phosphate expressed as P2O5, and 6 pounds of potash expressed as K2O. Fertilizers containing N, P, and K, such as 9-18-9 and 20-20-20, are referred to as “complete fertilizers”.

If you are trying to stay completely organic, fertilizers are offered in this form as well. Organic fertilizers take time to break down and release nutrients more slowly.

To determine when to fertilize or how much, take into consideration your environment, whether your trees have been under stress due to low moisture, whether they have been damaged physically. Competition by nearby turf and trees can cause stress on your trees. And if you have just planted your tree, it is important to keep weeds away from their bases to avoid excess stress.

Another way to determine whether your tree needs fertilized is to do a soils test by taking a sample. Ideally, a soil sample should be taken before trees are planted. Additional samples can be taken every 3 to 5 years thereafter to determine whether any nutrients are lacking. A soil test kit may be obtained from your county extension service.

In the absence of a soil test, the best indicator of the need for additional fertilization of established trees is shoot growth. If new shoot growth (growth occurring in the present year) is in excess of 6 inches, then fertilization is probably unnecessary. If shoot growth is between 2 and 6 inches then fertilizer may be applied.

Foliage color is another indicator of the need for fertilization. Yellow or “off-color” leaves may indicate the need for fertilization as these symptoms generally occur on trees, which are not taking up enough of one or more required nutrient. Always remember, however, that apparently “off-color” leaves are normal for certain plants such as ‘Sunburst’ Honeylocust and some maple and ash trees in the fall.

A final indicator of the need for fertilization is the history of the yard. Trees in yards that are fertilized for turf on a regular basis rarely need to have supplemental fertilizer applied. Supplemental fertilizer should only be considered if shoot growth is less than two inches, or if a soil test reveals a specific nutrient deficiency.

When should you fertilize? Most trees experience a single flush of growth during spring followed by slower growth throughout the summer and fall. Because of this single flush of growth, it is desirable to have nutrients available to the tree as this growth is about to occur. The most beneficial time to apply fertilizer is from when the ground is workable in the spring until just before trees start growing in early May. On sandy soils, applications should be split, half in early spring and half in mid- to late May.

If you have trees, put them on a schedule, monitor when you have fertilized and any changes. And remember, it is vital for their healthy growth.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Caring For Your Tree Pruning Tools

Pruning and maintaining your trees and plants in your garden is a gardener’s ongoing duty. With such responsibility comes the care of their tools. No matter what type of tool or tools you own, quality and expensive or affordable, they will need care. So how do you go about caring for your gardening tools?

To start, tools need to be sharp so that you can use them effortlessly and so that they do not damage the tree or plant you are pruning. To keep your cutting tools sharp, file the cutting edge of the tool. Practice makes perfect. Even a badly sharpened tool is easier to use that a dull tool. To make short work of your filing projects, install a vise on your workbench. With the tool securely gripped by this second set of "hands" you'll be able to quickly and safely file the business end of your tool. If you regularly file your tools, it will take but a few strokes to keep a fine sharp edge.

To file, use a mill file. Start with the top edge of the tool. File away from you, using long even strokes at the same angle as the original bevel. Lift the tool between strokes. File the opposite side lightly just to remove roughness or burrs for a clean, sharp edge.

Tools made of more expensive metal will hold their edge longer than those that are inexpensive

Next, if your tools have wood parts, these too need care. Wood handles on long and short tools need to be sanded and oiled at regular intervals, usually once a year is enough. Wipe off the handle to clean, and use little if any water. Use fine sand paper to smooth the surface. Remove the dust and rub linseed oil into the handle. Let it soak in. Use as much as it takes until it doesn't absorb any more. Wait about a half hour, then dry off any remaining on the surface. If your tools are made of fiberglass instead, wash them with soap and water, then dry.

How should you store your tools? If your tools are made of metal, which most are, place them in a 5-gallon bucket filled with coarse sand to which oil (motor oil or vegetable oil) has been added. You can store tools in the winter in the sand. Once ready for use, remove them and wipe them off. Each time you use your tools, clean as much dirt as you can, then dig the tool up and down in the sand a few times to clean off remaining dirt and coat the head with oil. The oil coating prevent rusts.

Once a year, clean metal surfaces with a wire brush to remove dirt and light rust. If the rust is a bit worse, you can sometimes remove it by soaking the tool in white vinegar; otherwise, use steel wool. The extent of the rust determines what grade to use. Start with the least coarse grade you can to remove the rust. Once the rust is removed and the entire surface is clean, you can apply a rust-proofing primer. Steel wool and repaint any rough areas.

Of course to prevent rust during usage, always hose off your tools and then dry them. Use a general purpose oil to quickly wipe blades and metal surfaces to condition between uses. You can clean blades of tools like pruners with oil and make sure to oil the working parts so that they clip freely. Your pruners may need to be disassembled first before cleaning and sharpening them. Many gardeners color the blade to be sharpened with a black felt tip marker and sharpen evenly until all traces of the marker have been removed.

Sharpen only beveled edges and always shape blades to maintain the original shape of the bevel.

Tools like pruners need to be cleaned after every use for other reasons as well. Cleaning them each time helps to help prevent tree diseases from spreading. Many gardeners disinfect their pruning tools after each tree you prune. To disinfect your tools, a solution of one part bleach to nine parts water can be applied. Then follow this by cleaning your tools with soapy water and thoroughly drying them afterwards. Always make sure to they are dry before putting them away to detour rust from developing. Finally, if you’re not skilled in the use of tools like chain saws, especially, always put safety first and hire an expert in the tree trimming service.

Keeping your tools in good working order will not only be beneficial to your plants but will make your end of the job easier as well and save on having to replace them.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Tree Planting Rules

So you want to plant trees – before you get started, there is a method that works best so that you can have the healthiest tree possible – we will call them Tree Planting Rules.

To start dig your hole big enough so that when you place your tree in the ground, the crown of the tree will be level with the soil. Be sure the hole you dig isn't too deep or too shallow. Place your tree in the hole as you dig to measure whether it is the right depth, the ground level of the plant in the pot should match up with the ground level after you fill the hole in. You can place the handle of your shovel flat across the hole from one side to the other to measure whether the crown is level with the surrounding soil before filling in the hole.

Once your hole is dug, you can add fertilizer. All plants need fertilizer to thrive, but too much and you will burn the leaves or kill the plant. Follow the package directions on the type of fertilizer you purchase. A good choice is slow release fertilizer, available from garden stores. Over-fertilizing can result in growth that is too fast. This growth might not be very strong or well formed. More is not better.

You can use compost or manure to help the soil out around your newly planted tree. If the soil that you currently have is not rich, has clay-like qualities or if it has the consistency of dust or sand, the addition of manure or compost will give the tree a great start in life. Backfill three quarters of the hole with existing dirt, one quarter with compost or composted manure. The composted organic matter also includes lots of nutrients for your tree. If you think the compost is rich enough, you may be able to do without a commercial fertilizer.

When planting fruit and nut trees, give them extra attention. For example, adding manure or compost is essential if you are planting these types of trees. Backfill two thirds of the hole with existing dirt and one third with compost or composted manure for each fruit or nut tree.

Next, water the newly planted tree. There will be some settling after you water, so after this occurs, backfill the remaining soil, and water again. This will eliminate air pockets. Water one gallon (3.7 liters) for every six inches (15 cm) of tree height.

After you have watered, you can now apply mulch over the planting hole. The rule of thumb is to cover the planting hole with 1-3 inches (2.5 cm - 7.6 cm) of shredded hardwood or leaf mulch. Do not put mulch against the trunk or it will rot. Don't over-mulch the tree, either. A few inches are enough to keep water in and most weeds out. Mulch a circle out to the drip line, about the same width as the tree's leaves. A visible patch of mulch also helps remind people not to step or mow or run a string trimmer too close to the tree.

Now you need to water your tree again. After the planting is finished come back in about an hour and water one more time.
Stake the tree if necessary, for about the first year. Make sure that whatever stakes you use are tied loosely to the trunk and do not dig into the bark or tighten around the tree. Remove the stakes once the roots have a chance to become established, after about the first year. Staking protects the tree against blowing over in the wind, and it can also help to remind people moving around the tree not to run into it.

With your newly planted tree don’t forget to keep watering it for the first few years as it gets established. Depending on the climate and your area, it will need weekly watering until the roots are established. To form deep roots, water deeply. A long, slow trickle of water will water more deeply than a quick sprinkling. Remember, deep roots help your tree to be resist droughts and winds. Let the ground dry out, at least somewhat, between watering.

Last, is enjoy the tree as it grows over the years with you and your family. Appreciate its shade and beauty and thank yourself for adding another tree to the world. And there you have it, the rules for planting your tree.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Tree Trimming in Austin

There is a myriad of tree trimmers to choose from when you are looking for tree trimming services in Austin. You are probably wondering who you can trust to treat your trees as if they were their own. Many people have this problem. You may be looking for a good price, but you also want to make sure that you are not just hiring someone who bought a chainsaw and called themselves a tree trimmer!
The first thing you should do is exactly what you are doing now. Do a little research before you start going down the list and calling people for estimates. Trees can suffer irreparable damage if they are not trimmed correctly. For this reason, you should consider a certified arborist when looking for the right tree trimmer. In Austin, we hold our trees dear, because we know what a precious resource they are. You need to hire someone interested in the conservation of your trees.
An arborist is an extensively trained professional. You may be more familiar with an arborist being called a “tree doctor” or a “tree surgeon”. Certified arborists have been through rigorous written tests to receive their certification. They also have to have at least three years of experience before they can take the test. A degree in Forestry is a bonus. Arborists can assess your trees health and know exactly which limbs can safely be removed.
Hiring an arborist is not necessarily expensive. Most arborists charge about the same or just slightly more than their unqualified counterparts. This is mostly because unqualified self-starters in the industry charge what people expect to pay, not because their knowledge and experience make their work worth the price. In fact, many or uninsured and do not guarantee the health of your trees when they are done. Some damage done will not even be noticeable until months down the road, so you want to be sure you are hiring dependable, qualified people.
Check on customer satisfaction. Arborists will usually be willing to show you their work. Ask for addresses near you of trees that they have treated. Find out if they have a list of references that you can call. Find out if their customers were satisfied not only with the work that was done, but with the level of service and professionalism that they received.
Caring for your trees is not something that can be taken lightly. Trees in Austin are becoming scarcer and we need to protect all that we can. Make sure that when you are searching for tree trimming Austin that you find a company that you are confident will make informed, conservative decisions about your trees.

About the Author: Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

When to Trim Your Trees: Tree Trimming Austin, TX

Having your trees trimmed can offer many advantages and it should be considered for all trees on your property. Tree trimming is essential when you are growing a new tree. The shape of the tree can be controlled by proper trimming early in life. When you have your trees trimmed, you reduce the risk of limb breakage, disease, damage to your property, and irregular tree shape.
Tree trimming is not only aesthetic. Tree trimming can keep your trees healthy and promote the growth of foliage, flowers and fruit. Letting your fruit tree limbs get long and out of control can be a real problem. Tree limbs can easily get weighed down by the weight of the ripening fruit. This can cause your tree to lose many limbs in one growing season. Not only does this make your tree look unsightly in your yard, but it opens up areas on the tree that make it susceptible to disease.
A professional tree trimmer will know what time of year is best for your particular tree to be trimmed. Some trees should not be trimmed in the winter. Have your trees trimmed in the summer if you are trying to promote new growth. A skilled tree trimmer can tell exactly where to cut to promote growth in areas where it is needed. This can help improve the shape of your tree. This can balance the number and density of limbs. You can also decide if you would rather have a wide or slender tree shape. Having a balanced shape can also add strength to the tree. A professional arborist or tree trimmer will know how to trim the limbs so that they grow in the direction that you desire.
Tree trimmers will look for certain types of limbs to trim off. For example, limbs close to the ground will usually be trimmed off. Smaller trees trying to grow at the base of the trunk will also most likely need to be removed. Dead and broken limbs will need to be properly cut so that they can heal correctly. There are many factors that should be considered, and this is why most people wisely choose a professional tree trimmer to do the job.
For the most reliable results, you should do a little research before hiring your tree trimmer. Many people may buy some equipment and call themselves a professional. If you want to be sure of your results and get a real professional opinion, call a certified arborist. This can be especially important if you have a tree that needs to be saved. Hiring a certified arborist for pest management and disease control could literally mean the difference in saving or losing the tree. Make sure that you get real, honest advice when looking for Austin tree service. Call a certified arborist for all of your tree care needs.

About the Author: Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Do any of your trees need pruning?

There are many reasons to prune a tree. It is best to remove diseased branches to stop the growth of the disease and to remove the not-too-attractive parts of the tree. Or say a damaging storm has left branches partly broken off and dangling; the tree will be much happier with these branches taken off. Perhaps a tree needs the crown trimmed permitting better air circulation so that healthy new growth will start to appear. A tree also needs pruning when lower branches are obstructing the way, a view or the growth of lower shrubs. Maybe you would like to train the tree to grow in a certain direction for design purposes, then pruning could be a consideration. And there is always the reason of reducing the tree’s height because it has just grown too tall.

It is best to prune during the dormant season in late fall or winter. However, dead branches can and should be removed at any time. Pruning during the dormant period minimizes sap loss and subsequently, any stress to the tree. Because fungus infection and/or insect infestation are also in dormancy during this time, pruning a tree then minimizes the risk of their damage invading the tree. Also, in the case of deciduous trees, pruning when the leaves are off will allow you to design your cutting with the overall structural shape of the tree.

Once you decide which trees need pruning, next determine whether or not you can do it yourself or need to hire the experts. If the tree is tall and involves large branches especially near the top, then there should be no question. Never compromise personal safety in pruning a tree. Large tree pruning may require climbing, heavy saws, or even chain saws. The trained, knowledgeable, and experienced professionals know how to handle these jobs the best.

Among the pruning jobs that you can do yourself, remember in all cases, to protect the stem or trunk wood of the tree while pruning off the unwanted branches. Tree branches grow from stems at nodes and pruning always takes place on the branch side of a stem-branch node. Branches and stems are separated by a lip of tissue called a stem collar. The stem collar grows out from the stem at the base of the branch. All pruning cuts should be made on the branch side of this stem collar. This will help protect the stem and any other branches growing from it making the healing after the prune more effective. Do not paint the cuts with compounds that prevent air from accessing where the pruning took place, thereby slowing the healing process.

To prevent tearing of the bark and stem wood, particularly in the case of larger branches, use the following procedure:
First, make a small wedge shaped cut on the underside of the branch just on the branch side of the stem collar to let the break happen at that point and prevent a tear from running along the bark and stem tissue.
Then, starting at the top of the branch, farther along the branch, cut all the way through the branch leaving a stub end.
Finally, make a third cut parallel to and only on the branch side of the stem collar to reduce the length of the stub as much as possible.

Newly-planted trees should not be pruned until they feel settled in their new growing spot. Prune only if there happens to be any damaged or broken branches. Do not prune the top of the tree as this could alter the structure of the tree excessively, according to which tree species it is, and may hamper necessary carbohydrate production. For further information about which tree species will be affected by this particular pruning or if you have any other pruning questions, consult the professionals at Central Texas Tree Care.

About the Author: Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading Austin Texas tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas). Central Texas Tree Care offers services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management and fertilization. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.