Topping Your Trees And The Damage It Can Cause

Trees grow; there is no doubt about it. And with all of their growth comes at times, interference with overhead lines or potential breakage. Despite this possibilities, topping or cutting off the top of your tree is extremely harmful to it. This doesn't mean there aren't alternatives. If your tree needs to be trimmed back, there are pruning techniques that can be adopted and used.

So what is topping, you might ask? Topping is when one cuts tree branches or lateral branches indiscriminately. The most common reason given for topping is to reduce the size of a tree. But topping stresses a tree and can cause it to die. This happens due to the fact that when people top their trees, it often removes 50 to 100 percent of the leaf-bearing crown of a tree. Knowing leaves are the way a tree produces food, removing these important leaves can temporarily starve your tree. When one makes severe cuts to a tree, such as in topping, it forces the tree into survival. The tree then activates latent buds, forcing the rapid growth of multiple shoots below each cut. The tree then will put out a new crop of leaves as soon as possible. If a tree does not have the stored energy reserves to do so, it will be seriously weakened and may die.

When a tree weakens, it is also stressed. This can lead to vulnerability to insects and disease. The tree may lack sufficient energy to chemically defend the wounds against invasion, and some insects are actually attracted to the chemical signals trees release. Topping a tree also causes decay. Trees are designed to close wounds, if the tree is healthy and the cut isn't too big. But cuts made along a limb between lateral branches may not be able to close. This allows decay organisms a free path to move down through the branches.

If this isn't enough, topping can also exposes trees to high levels of light and heat, resulting in what is called sunburn. Sunburned trees can lead to cankers, bark splitting, and death of some branches.

When a tree is topped, the tree will also produce multiple shoots below each topping cut.
The new shoots grow quickly, as much as 20 feet in one year, in some species. If this sounds good, the problem is that these shoots are weak and prone to breaking, especially during storms.

Last, if the tree survives, it will require pruning again within a few years. This can be costly. And if the tree dies and has to be removed, this can be even more costly.
To properly take care of your tree's height, ask a professional about proper pruning techniques. If pruning involves working above the ground or using power equipment, it may be best to hire a professional arborist. An arborist can prune your tree properly to help improve its health and the safety of the trees surroundings. An arborist also has all the proper tools, equipment and crew to do the job. While it may sound cheaper to prune your own mature trees, in the long run, it may be a better investment just to hire a professional.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Tree Pruning Cuts and Techniques

Trees need pruned for a variety of reasons – whether it be for the health of the tree, for safety in regards to limbs interfering with utility wires or potentially falling, or just for the aesthetic of the tree. When pruning your tree there is a science to the procedure. Proper tree pruning cuts and techniques is vital.

To start, where should one begin to prune? Pruning cuts should be made just outside the branch collar. The branch collar contains trunk or parent branch tissue and should not be damaged or removed. If the trunk collar has grown out on a dead limb to be removed, make the cut just beyond the collar. Do not cut the collar.

If a large limb is to be removed, its weight should first be reduced. This is done by making an undercut about 12 to 18 inches from the limb’s point of attachment. Make a second cut from the top, directly above or a few inches farther out on the limb. Doing so removes the limb, leaving the 12- to 18-inch stub. Remove the stub by cutting back to the branch collar. This technique reduces the possibility of tearing the bark.

Many trees form ridges on the top and bottom of branches where they are attached to the trunk. These are called shoulder rings. Pruning cuts should be made between the center ridges of these rings. The cut will not be flush or parallel to the trunk but will be out from it slightly, with the lower edge of the cut farther away from the trunk than the top.

Such a cut will form a smaller wound than a flush cut, and callus tissue will form rapidly to cover the wound. Callus tissue should develop uniformly around the edge of the wound.

Often shoulder rings are not present at branch attachments. The cutting position can be approximated by envisioning a line connecting the point bisecting the top angle of the crotch and a similar point bisecting the lower angle of attachment.

The structural features of a tree may be emphasized by moderate thinning to reduce density. The structure of dogwood, ginkgo and others can be maintained in the landscape by moderate thinning out.

Homeowners often attempt to control the size of trees by pruning. It is best to prune the tree as it begins to reach the desired height. Delaying pruning until the tree is much larger than you want it makes pruning more difficult and pruning cuts harder to hide, and it encourages excessive regrowth.

Thinning-out pruning can be used to reduce the height and spread of a tree. Cut branches to lower laterals (drop crotching). Some limbs may be removed completely. A thinned tree retains its natural shape and is less subject to vigorous water sprouts than a headed or topped tree.

Topping (heading back) is, unfortunately, the most common method of reducing tree size. It is more rapid than thinning, but the results are, in most cases, much less desirable. Regrowth is vigorous and upright from the stubs. The new branches form a compact head and broom-like terminals, and they may be weakly attached to older branches.

Bleeding of pruning wounds can be heavy on certain trees, such as birch, dogwood, sugar maples and elms. Bleeding of susceptible trees can be minimized by making small cuts--less than 3 inches in diameter--and pruning in summer. Bleeding is much more likely if severe pruning is done just before growth begins in the spring. Bleeding doesn't harm the tree, but if it's heavy and persistent, it may injure the bark below the pruning cut and cause slow callusing of the lower wound.

If large limbs need to be removed or if you can't reach the limbs that need pruning, secure the services of a professional landscape manager. Landscape managers are trained in the art of pruning to retain the natural beauty of trees.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.