Central Texas Tree Experts

The Wonders of the Mulberry Tree

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Wed, 17 Feb 2010 00:04:00 +0000

Mulberry Trees evoke a love-hate response from their owners. They are great shade trees with beautiful shape, but their berries can either be a messy disaster for their owners or a wonderful delight.

The Mulberry or Morus is a genus of 10-16 species of deciduous trees native to warm subtropical regions of Asia, Africa, Europe and the Americas. Mulberries grow quickly when young and then slow down once they achieve maturity. A mulberry rarely exceeds 33 to 49 feet in height.

The mulberry has been known to mankind since thousands of years. The use of the tree has also been important throughout history, whether it is in China where the leaves are used to feed the silkworms in order to enhance silk production or for the Romans who used the leaves to treat various diseases. The mulberry is also acknowledged in mythology and folklore. According to a German folklore, the fruits of mulberry trees are associated with evil, as it was believed that the devil uses the roots of this tree to polish his boots.
  The fruit of a mulberry is edible and has been used in pies, tarts, and even wines or cordials. There are three types of fruit, the black mulberry, white mulberry and red. The white mulberry is an east Asian species and its leaves are the preferred feedstock for silkworms, making them popular in Asia. In traditional Chinese medicine, the fruit is used to treat prematurely grey hair, to "tonify" the blood, and treat constipation and diabetes. The bark of the mulberry is used to treat cough, wheezing, edema, and to promote urination.

A mature mulberry plant contains significant amounts of resveratrol, particularly in stem bark. The fruit and leaves are sold in various forms as nutritional supplements. Raw fruit and green parts of the plant have a white sap that is intoxicating and mildly hallucinogenic.

The mulberry is also known for its Anthocyanins or pigments which are used as natural food colorants. Anthocyanin content depends on climate, area of cultivation, and is particularly higher in sunny climates.

If growing your own mulberries, place your tree where there is full sun and adequate space. Leave close to 15 feet between trees and don't plant them near sidewalks, as the fallen fruit is quite messy. Mulberries like a warm, well-drained soil. Although they are somewhat drought-resistant, mulberries need to be watered in dry seasons. If the roots become too dry, the fruit will drop before ripe.

As for pruning your mulberry, there are no special techniques required after the branches have been trained to a sturdy framework, except to remove dead or overcrowded wood. You can keep your mulberry tree in tidy form by developing a set of main branches, and then pruning laterals to 6 leaves in July in order to develop spurs near the main branches. It is not advisable to prune the trees heavily since the plant is inclined to bleed at the cuts. Cuts of more than two inches in diameter generally do not heal and should be avoided at all cost. The bleeding will be less severe if the tree is pruned while it is dormant.

If you are planting your mulberry just for the sake of shade and are not interested in the fruit, you can plant the 'male' mulberry. Whether you are picking out a mulberry for ornamental value or for its fruit, it is most likely you will enjoy the mulberry tree as thousands of others have over the years.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Selecting The Right Tree For You

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sat, 13 Feb 2010 00:07:00 +0000

Spring is nearly upon us and as you begin to get the urge to plant trees, first go through a mental checklist of which trees you want to plant followed by a list of how to pick the healthiest tree at the store.

To begin, when deciding upon which tree to place in your yard, ask yourself a few questions. Is the tree for shade, privacy, to block a view or for its fruit or flowers? Second, find out how much room you have for a tree, some trees grow to large sizes and can quickly skyrocket into unseen power lines or get to close to your house or even your neighbors house.

If you are looking for quick shade, you will want to do your homework in regards to what kinds of trees grow the quickest. Hardwood trees grow slower, but on the upside, they live longer. Fast growing trees often require a lot of water and are often brittle and break easy so make sure you have both the water and the room to plant these types of trees.

Next, determine if the tree you are looking at is a deciduous or evergreen. Deciduous trees lose their leaves in the fall and are bare all winter, which allows sunlight into your home and yard. This can be positive if you live in a cold climate. Evergreens retain their foliage year-around. Examples of evergreens are trees such as pines or magnolias.

Once you have determined where to plant your tree and whether it should be an evergreen or deciduous, next find out if it is suitable for where you live, which is called your 'hardiness-zone'. Most home and garden centers can help you determine what type of zone you live in so that you can decide which trees to plant and when. Some trees are more cold-hardy than others. Also ask about the type of soil that the tree grows best in. Many trees do best in rich, moist, woodsy soil that is on the acid side. Others prefer more alkaline soil that tends to be dry because it's not as rich in moisture-holding organic matter. Some trees, like swamp red maples and bald cypress, can handle even truly wet soil.

Another question to ask is whether trees will have thorns or are weedy and messy. This can be a hassle if you have children or animals that could get into the thorns or drag messy leaves and seeds into the house. For instance, sycamores and relatives of the London plane tree drip fuzzy balls, bark, and twigs all over the place. The spiked balls from sweetgum trees and the runaway roots of willows present challenges as well. However, if you choose the right place for some of these less-desirable varieties, you often can overlook their faults and enjoy their virtues instead.

When picking out the tree of your choice, be sure to choose a reputable nursery or garden center. There are many big box stores who have numerous choices but may not have the trained personnel to help you properly pick your plant. Second, pick a healthy tree that has leaves of normal size, shape and color. The tree should be uniformly shaped and be free of spots or broken limbs. Examine the trunk for cankers and split bark, especially after winter.

Examine the roots of the tree if you can. Are the roots growing out of the drainage holes of the container? Small roots can be cut off, but cutting larger roots in order to remove the tree from the container can hurt the tree. Slide the tree's root ball out of the container to determine if the plant has become pot-bound. The root ball should stay together but be somewhat pliable. If the root ball is very hard or many roots are circling the root ball it would be best to purchase a different plant. A mass of circling roots can act as a physical barrier to root growth into the soil after transplanting. The circled roots can also choke and kill the plant as it grows. Examine the root system for small white roots along the exterior of the root ball. Do not buy plant with black roots. These roots were probably damaged by heat, freezing temperatures, excessive fertilizer, or under or over watering.

Going through this simple process of decision making and will help you grow a healthy tree that will give you the most satisfaction.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

The Healing Power of Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 00:27:00 +0000

Trees and plants have been a source of medicine for humans since the beginning of time. As large forests are being cut down, scientists worry about what this means in regards to the potential loss in trees that are ancient and of which science has been hidden.

An herbalist wrote in his dissertation, " Tree remedies tend to be stronger, more sustaining and with more powerful actions than their non-arboreal counterparts. They are often gentle and protective in their physical and emotional effects and, being slow moving, are particularly suitable for treating chronic illness. The circulation of the blood and the integrity of the musculoskeletal and integumentary [skin] systems are particular areas of application.” (Purves, D.A., 2003, p.50)."

When a plant’s physical characteristics indicate its medicinal properties, this theory is called the ‘doctrine of signatures’. For example, with trees, a Willow was traditionally used to treat rheumatism, arthritis and muscular aches. This is due to the fact the Willow is a flexible tree that moves with ease in the wind and it favors growing in damp places. The symptoms of rheumatism and arthritis are exacerbated by damp conditions. So the tree’s characteristics suggest that it will be beneficial for people who need flexibility and the ability to cope with dampness.

Today, scientists have discovered more than 300 plant-made pharmaceuticals (PMPs) under various stages of discovery. For centuries the Chinese have used the medicinal properties of trees to cure illnesses, as have the Native Americans. For instance, the Chinese make tea made from ginkgo seeds as a cure for respiratory illnesses, such as asthma. Today it is known that ginkgo leaf extract is great for the treatment of a wide range of aliments such as Alzheimer's and depression.

The Chinese also use the bark of the Magnolia tree for healing. The bark is called Hou Pu. Hou Pu is the part of the bark that is highly aromatic and stripped from the stems, branches and roots of the magnolia. In historic documents, the first mention of magnolia bark as a Traditional Chinese medicinal substance was recorded around 100 C.E. Acupuncturists and practitioners of Oriental medicine still continue to use Hou Pu. It is also used in Chinese herbal formulas to resolve complaints such as abdominal distension and pain, vomiting and diarrhea. Magnolia bark‘s therapeutic actions include the promotion of qi in the gastrointestinal region. For the acupuncture patient, this translates to relief of stomach fullness, bloating and discomfort.

As for the Native Americans, traditionally they have used Aspen bark for reducing fever and fighting influenza.

If it isn't the tree specifically that is used, it is often the nut of the tree. For instance the walnut is considered to be an herb in Chinese medicine. Walnuts are said to tone kidneys, strengthen the back and knees, warm and hold qi in lungs and help kidneys to grasp the qi, moisten the intestines and move stool. It is believed to stop asthma. It is also used to help the elderly relieve constipation.

Other tree species notorious throughout time for their healing prosperities include: hawthorn, white willow, lime, elder and oak. Other well known trees used include horse chestnut, eucalyptus, walnut, gingko, cedar, witch hazel, olive, juniper, buckthorn, ash, holly, pine, beech, larch, elm, sweet chestnut, hornbeam, crab apple, aspen, birch and more!

Will humans go back to examining the benefits of trees more closely for medicinal properties or will they discount them as just beautiful additions to the planet?

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Planting and Caring For Dwarf Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Wed, 27 Jan 2010 00:23:00 +0000

If space is a concern for you but you really would love to grow your own fruit, dwarf trees may be your solution. The size difference between a dwarf fruit tree and a standard-sized tree is that a dwarf is usually less than 10 feet tall as opposed to a full size, which can grow from 20 to 40 feet tall.

The varieties offered in dwarf variety can be limited, mostly with apples and peaches. If you are purchasing peaches, nectarines, almonds, apricots and citrus such as lemons or limes, you can often find what you are searching for.

Examples of dwarf fruit trees available include:

• Apple – Cortland, Enterprise, Goldrush, Granny Smith, Honeycrisp
• Pear – Beurre Bosc, Bartlett
• Cherry – Balaton Pie Cherry, Blackgold Sweet Cherry
• Plum – Burbank Elephant Heart, Bubblegum Plum,
• Peach – Elberta, Belle of Georgia, Blushingstar Peach
• Lemon – Meyer Lemon
• Lime – Kaffir Lime
• Oranges – Moro Blood Orange, Washington Navel, Bouquet de Fleur Sour Orange
• Mandarins – Gold Nugget, Murcott Mandarin, Dancy Tangarine
• Grapefruit – Rio Red, Chinese, Melogold

Dwarf trees are great for people who have apartments in that they do well in containers. Keeping them in containers also makes them easy to prune and harvest. Younger trees will also bear fruit faster. If you are growing your dwarf tree in a container, you can use almost any type including those made of plastic, clay, metal, ceramic or wood, as long as there is adequate drainage. When planting your dwarf, start with a container at least six inches wider than the trees root ball.

Dwarf trees need well-drained sandy soil with a moderate amount of fertilizer. It is best to put your potted tree in a place that gets full sunlight, although there are some varieties that do well in partial shade. A dwarf tree like a full sized tree will require regular pruning. Pruning will not only keep the tree healthy but will also help maintain the shape of the tree. Most pruning is done during the trees dormancy, just before active growth begins in the spring. Some summer pruning can be done to remove branches and to maintain the tree's small size.

During the winter, move your dwarf fruit tree indoors and away from drafts. Trees in pots should be watered as needed, be sure to look at the tag that comes with the tree to determine how much water is required. Fertilizing should be done at least once every four to six weeks during the trees growing season.

Because the tree may outgrow its pot, its best to make sure you transplant the tree into a larger pot before it gets to big, approximately one size up every two years.

If you are looking for a dwarf tree to plant outside due to restricted yard size, there are also dwarf ornamentals. Take into consideration your areas hardiness zone before picking out your tree, as you would when planting any other tree. Also determine whether you want an ornamental that flowers. Most dwarf ornamentals will be ten feet in size or smaller. Dwarf ornamentals available include:

• Japanese Maple
• Alberta Spruce
• Weeping Redbud
• Tina Crabapple
• China Girl Dogwood
• Stewartia
• Persian Ironwood
• Franklin Tree
• Fir – Meyer’s Fir, Korean Fir, Balsam
• Chase Manhattan Dwarf Ginkgo
• Dwarf Larch
• Weeping Youngii Birch

Growing dwarf trees can be fun and entertaining, whether you have to go small because of room or just because you want to.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Noninfectious Diseases of Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sat, 23 Jan 2010 23:32:00 +0000

There are many reasons a tree begins to weaken, wither and potentially dies that have nothing to do with disease. Extreme temperature changes and water supply are the primary cause of tree problems. Secondarily would be chemical substances in the soil, water or air, transplant shock and injury.

So what are the ways a tree can become weakened?

1. Hot or High Temperatures - Hot temperatures can cause trees to defoliate and their leaves to become scorched. Heat or drying winds cause a rapid loss of water. When leaves begin to turn yellow or brown and fall prematurely, it is most likely due to heat.

2. Cold Temperatures - In early fall or late spring, when trees are actively growing, trees are susceptible to extreme cold and frost. Signs of cold weather injury include Frost Crack, where long vertical bulges or cracks are caused in the bark of a tree. Frost cracking can reoccur in the same place causing a buildup of tissues and formations of scarring. To protect your trees in the winter you can do the following:

• Plant tree species adapted to local conditions.
• Cover young trees if frost is expected.
• Avoid planting in low-lying areas subject to frost.
• Do not use high nitrogen fertilizer late in the growing season.
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Avoid wounds to the trunk and properly prune branches to prevent the formation of frost cracks.

3. Drought - Drought occurs when there is a lack of rain over a long period of time. Without an adequate storage of water within the ground the tree cannot uptake water by its roots. Symptoms include wilting, off-color foliage, twig and branch dieback in the crown, and the death of fine roots. The crowns of drought stricken trees usually die from the top down and from the outside in. Trees in this condition are more readily attacked by fungi and insects. Shallow-rooted trees, and trees planted on light, sandy soils with poor moisture-holding capacity are most susceptible to drought. To protect your trees from drought:

• Do not plant shallow-rooted species in areas of low moisture or on sandy soils.
• Put mulch around the base of the tree. In addition to helping retain soil moisture, mulch helps to control weeds, preventing lawnmower and weed whip injury.
• Conifers growing over high water tables for long periods may die quickly after the water table drops. The foliage turns red and drops off soon after death.
• Water ornamental trees about once a week to moisten soil 6 to 12 inches deep into the root zone.

4. Excess Moisture - Trees can get too much water as well as too little. Trees planted in areas where there is poor drainage can become waterlogged. When this happens, oxygen is deprived from the roots and the tree begins to die. Symptoms of oxygen deficiency closely resemble those of drought injury: reduced growth, small leaves and thin crowns, twig and branch dieback, and tree death. Roots in waterlogged soils are susceptible to a variety of soil-borne fungal pathogens. To protect your plants you can:

• Plant species that are adapted to the conditions in areas subject to periodic flooding.
• Prepare planting sites to allow for adequate drainage and root growth.

5. Chemical Injury - There are many chemicals in the air and water that effect trees. Symptoms of chemical injury are often difficult to diagnose, as the possibilities are endless. Some include:

a. Nutrient Deficiency

- Trees need certain nutrients for proper growth. Nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium are the most important. Symptoms of nutrient deficiency mimic many other diseases and vary greatly depending upon which nutrient is lacking. The most common symptoms of nutrient deficiency are: reduced growth, yellowing, and necrosis.

b. Herbicide Injury

- Herbicides applied improperly can injure trees. Leaves of deciduous trees will become distorted, curled, and brown on the margins. Conifer needles will turn yellow or brown, and succulent shoots will curl or become deformed. Trees will usually survive, but their growth will be stunted.

c. Salt Injury - Salts from roads that is splashed onto the foliage or is absorbed through the roots will cause a browning of the tree, especially on the side facing the roadway. Trees growing where salt accumulates because of drainage patterns will also be affected. The affected foliage will fall off in the spring, thinning the crown, although new growth will make the tree appear otherwise healthy. However, these trees will grow more slowly and remain stunted, and may eventually be killed by prolonged exposure.

There are other noninfectious factors that can cause trees to wither or die including winter scald and other types of pollution. Before treating your trees, be sure to examine all the possibilities. Consult a professional to save yourself time and money and in the long run you may help your tree become healthier.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Identifying Frost Crack On Your Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Thu, 21 Jan 2010 15:14:00 +0000

If you have ever heard what sounds like gunfire go off in the dead of winter and it isn't hunting season, it could be the sound of tree bark cracking. Frost crack is not a drug, but an occurrence distinct in thin barked trees, deciduous trees and trees that stand isolated rather than in groups or stands.

This isn't to say other types of trees don't develop frost crack. Trees that grow quickly and vigorously are more apt to develop frost cracks than very young or old trees. One can also find trees with frost crack that have some sort of weakness in the bark, which occurred to the tree earlier.

When and why does frost crack occur? Typically in late winter or early spring due to water building up within the tree's inner bark or xylem. As the wood expands and contracts with significantly fluctuating temperatures and the bark does not contract at the same rate as the inner phloem, cracking occurs.

Trees that are growing in poorly drained sites are more subject to frost cracking than are those growing in drier, better drained soils. Trees suddenly left exposed by felling are highly susceptible as well.

Frost cracks can be up to several feet long. You may not notice the cracks until spring and they are typically on the southwest side of the tree. Some cracks heals n the summer and then reopen again in the winter. If cracking and healing reoccurs the tree can develop frost ribs.

The wood beneath the frost crack is rarely damaged but the cracks can serve as sites of entry for wood decay organisms, including insects, fungi and bacteria. Timber damaged in this way is unsuitable for use in buildings, etc.

The sloughing or peeling of the bark is a normal process, especially in the spring when the tree begins to grow. The outer layers of the bark are dead tissue and therefore they cannot grow, the outer bark splitting in order for the tree to grow in circumference, increasing its diameter. The inner bark cambium and phloem tissues are living, and form a new protective layer of cells as the outer bark pulls apart. Most tree species try to seal the edges of wounds by forming a callus layer. The wound’s edges begin to form this callus during the first growing season after that crack appears and the callus layer will continue to grow and after many years, the wound may close over entirely.

Normal furrowed bark has a layer of bark over the wood below, however bark may peel or fall off the tree in sheets (river birch), plates (sycamore and pine), strips (cedar) or blocks (dogwood).

To reduce frost crack, avoid using fertilizers late in the growing season. Also, protect your trees from physical damage that can occur from lawn mowers, trimmers car bumpers, grazing animals, spades, etc. You can protect young trees in winter with paper tree wrap. Wrap your tree from ground level to the first main branches.

Trees most susceptible to frost cracking are: apple, crabapple, beech, cherry, golden-rain tree, horsechestnut, London planetree, some maples, pin Oak, tulip Tree, walnut, and willow. With the proper knowledge of what frost crack is and a few preventative measures, it is possible to try and protect your trees throughout the winter.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Caring For Dormant Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sat, 16 Jan 2010 00:50:00 +0000

Trees are survivalists, as is all of nature. If anything begins to threaten them, they adapt or change. For trees in the winter, dormancy is the solution to conserving energy and surviving. What is dormancy? It is a period when the tree's physical life cycle is temporarily stopped to help the tree minimize metabolic activity. There are different types of dormancy.

One type of dormancy is called Predictive Dormancy, this occurs when a tree enters a dormant phase before the weather changes - for instance, before it begins to freeze or get cold. There is also Consequential Dormancy, this occurs when a tree goes into dormancy after outside conditions have occurred. Consequential Dormancy occurs often in places where the climate is unpredictable.

The life of a tree occurs in cycles. In early spring, as days begin to bet longer and the weather is warmer, the tree is pulling all of its energy together for growth. This is when a tree puts off its seeds. Some trees produce flowers, from which the seeds come, before the leaves come out in the spring. These flowers produce seeds that ripen in the spring and fall to the ground and start to grow that year. Other seeds ripen and drop off in the fall and lay dormant over the winter and start to grow the following spring. In order for any seed to sprout and develop it must have food, water, sunlight and warmth. Until it gets roots, a stem above ground, and some leaves or needles, the seed uses the food stored in its shell to develop growth. As roots go deeper into the soil they absorb water and minerals form the soil and send these up into the stem.
As the weather continues to warm and summer arrives, the tree begins to grow rapidly taking advantage of the long days and optimum sunlight. For most trees, growth ceases by late summer (early August). That is, the tree does not produce any more leaves after this time. From this point until fall, the objective of the tree is to prepare for winter. During fall, a tree stores up food and energy reserves everything that is needed for next spring's growth.
The shorter days, cooler temperatures and reduction in sunlight then stimulates dormancy in the tree. During dormancy a tree may look dead but it is far from it. It is only waiting for spring. Changing the conditions around the tree may alter the time of year that the tree goes into dormancy. Heavy watering and fertilizing in fall (September) may stimulate the tree to continue growing, but this is not recommended. Any new growth produced at this time of year will have little chance to prepare itself for winter, and will most likely die from winterkill.
As winter finally sets in, the tree will then become fully dormant. Trees still continue to slowly grow roots, respire and take in water and nutrients throughout the winter. Many dormant trees have to be protected to keep it free from disease and insects. Caring for your tree before it goes into dormancy such as pruning it in late fall will help form and strengthen your tree as well as encourage new growth in the spring. Pruning also minimizes storm damage.

Mulching your tree in the winter is also helpful to the tree as it protects its feeder roots. If you are in a region that receives a lot of rain or snow, you may also want to consider aerating the soil around the tree so it doesn't become waterlogged. It is critical not to damage tree roots in the soil as you do this so work only on those few inches at the surface crust.   If you are in an area that receives little rain, be sure to water your tree throughout the winter. Your tree won't need as much water but nonetheless will need moisture.

A tree is a strong organism but can be stronger with a little help along the way, even in the winter.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Old Growth Forests And Their Value

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 14:31:00 +0000

There was a time when the earth was nearly covered in trees or ancient forests. Hard to believe as we look around today and see an ocean of homes or cleared land.

Ancient forests that once covered the land has been dwindled down to almost 20 percent of its historic standing. And half of this 20 percent has been removed just in the last thirty years. Even with deforestation's estimated contribution to global warming, ancient trees are still being removed due to illegal logging and industrial scale farming.

So what is an 'old growth forest'? Definitions state that it is a presence of old trees, dead standing snags, a multilayered canopy dominated by large overstory trees, and accumulations of large dead woody material.

Other requirements for an old growth forest include:

• The forest habitat possesses relatively mature, old trees;
• The old-growth trees have long continuity on the same site;
• The forest itself has not been subjected to significant inhabitation by mankind that has altered the appearance of the landscape and its ecosystems, has not been subjected to logging, and has inherently progressed per natural tendencies.

Many wonder why old-growth forests cannot just be replanted and whether that would provide the same amount of carbon and nutrients as an old growth forest would. The answer is no, old-growth forests take years to build rich communities of plants and animals, which contribute to the biodiversity of the planet. Old-growth forests also serve as a reservoir for species that cannot thrive or easily regenerate in younger forests. Such forests also provide invaluable medicines that are being discovered to cure ailments. And last, old-growth forests store large amounts of carbon above and below the ground, either as humus or in wet soils as peat.

Because of the large amounts of carbon stored in old forests in the wood, soil humus and peat, when these forests are cut or destroyed, the carbon dioxoide or methane is released into the environment, agitating the already current ecosystem.

Old-growth forests store large amounts of carbon, which is stored in wood, soil humus and peat. When forests are cut, the trees' wood, soil humus and peat all decay, releasing the carbon as carbon dioxide or methane. Logging practices often include burning of the logged area, releasing further CO2. Release carbon dioxide into the atmosphere and then trying to counteract it with the planting of new trees has proven counter-productive. To replace the old forests and recapture the benefits these trees provide can take centuries.

Old forest trees also have a staggered ages, something a new forest planted would not have. As trees regenerate and grow at different times along with varying spatial location to the main canopy, the regeneration pattern can easily be disturbed by humans.

A forest in old-growth stage has a mix of tree ages, due to a distinct regeneration pattern. New trees regenerate at different times from each other, because each one of them has different spatial location relative to the main canopy and hence each one receives a different amount of light. This regeneration pattern is different from the regeneration of trees after a major disturbance, when trees regenerate on the site in relatively similar time. In younger forests, trees have similar ages, because they all started to grow at the same time, after the old forest stand was killed.

The biggest issue with disturbing what Mother Nature has spent millions of years creating is the tipping of the biodiversity scale. Biodiversity is the representation of a large number and wide range of species of animals, plants, fungi and microorganisms. Scientists consider biodiversity important to the life of the planet as it can provide important balance in cases where when life forms are limited, one organism can wipe out huge amounts of crops - as in the Irish Potato Blight.

Today, biodiversity is most strongly represented in ancient forests, and more specifically in Brazil's Atlantic Forest. This forest along contains close to 20,000 plant species, 1350 vertebrates, and millions of insects, about half of which occur nowhere else in the world.

Describing the benefits of ancient-forests can be complex and scientific when related to the benefits of the whole planet. But on a human scale, they represent our heritage and a beauty that is hardly irreplaceable.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Trees and How Their Roots Can Cause Problems

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 18:20:00 +0000

There is nothing more beautiful than a tree, whether it is gracing the entrance to your yard or shading a porch or sidewalk. While many worry about how big a tree will get and whether its branches will break off and be of danger to their home or overhead wires, few remember to also look below and take caution of that tree's roots.

What ways can tree roots be a problem you might ask? Here are just a few things that can get damaged due to intrusive root systems:

1. Underground Pipes - A tree's invasive roots can affect old pipes that are barely holding together. Although pipes being broken by roots isn't a common incident, it still can be an issue. Many times the pipes are already leaking, giving the tree extra reason to grow larger and larger, stimulating root growth toward the break in the pipe. Species of trees that are most problematic to pipes are poplars, willows, and silver maples. If your trees roots have already infiltrated your pies, it could be a hassle to repair but it is still possible. Instead of removing the tree you can replace the faulty pipes with something more durable. This will not only be the easiest but possibly the cheapest and the best solution long term.

2. Septic Systems - Roots in your septic system is a common problem for many homeowners. Trees roots cannot only enter your septic tank area but also the leach field that drains your septic. The most common specie of trees that cause such problems are willow, maple, and elms. If you already have a problem with your trees roots blocking your septic tank, then you know it requires a professional to clear your system. There are chemicals you can buy for your septic systems that will kill roots, but the best solution is not planting trees too close to your septic tank.

3. Foundations - If you have seen a home with cracked flooring and walls, many look for a nearby tree planted too close to the house. While roots can occasionally be the cause of foundation damage, most homes' foundations are ruined due to the soil beneath the house drying and settling. Soil subsidence is a common reason for damage to a home's structure. Under very special circumstances roots can actually contribute to this problem. What is soil subsidence? It is when soil shrinks during periods of drought and expands when there is a lot of moisture. This shrinking and expansion shifts a home's foundation and eventually can cause walls in the home or flooring to crack.

4. Sidewalks and Pavement - Most of us have seen this kind of damage as we walk along a sidewalk and it begins to buck and roll where a tree is nearby. Roots from trees can crack or lift side walks, drives ways, and other paved surfaces. Trying to severely prune a tree to stop this damage from occurring rarely works and most likely will kill the tree. While having shade over a sidewalk sounds wonderful, it's only a matter of time before the tree grows too big and the roots began to cause that sidewalk damage.

If you installing the sidewalk and the trees at the same time, you can put in root barriers around the sidewalk as well as curbs, gutters, parking lots, and driveways. This will help to reduce the trees growth. These barriers are placed in the soil to a depth of 18 to 24 inches by trenching along the area to be protected. If trees are too close to pavement, or if compacted soil forces large roots to grow very near the soil surface, roots can eventually lift pavement. When roots encounter a paved area, the only entry is often a gap between the soil and pavement. Future problems can be prevented at the time of planting by using smaller plants, providing a minimum distance of 4 feet between the tree and the pavement, or using mechanical barriers to prevent roots from growing under the pavement. Remedies for lifted pavements around mature trees often involve either moving the pavement away from the tree or pruning off the problem roots. Cutting off the problem roots often causes stress and instability. Trees without sufficient root support can be blown over more easily in a storm.

Roots do not have to be a problem, it is just a matter of examining where you plant your trees in relation to objects you know that can become damaged. And if that tree has already been planted, don't despair, there are solutions for you to consider.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Great Trees for Christmas Nuts

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sun, 27 Dec 2009 15:34:00 +0000

Nuts are a common enjoyment all year around but especially at Christmas. What are some of the traditional nuts enjoyed in America that can also be grown?

1. Almonds - The almond tree produces a fruit rather than a nut, although the almond tree's fruit is considered a nut, technically it is called a drupe. Unlike true nuts, almonds develop a leathery flesh outside of the shell, which is usually discarded. Almonds are not only tasty but high in protein, low in carbohydrates and contain many essential vitamins and minerals. Almonds bloom earlier than any other nut tree, as early as February some years and continue until March. Growers of almond trees recognize the importance of bees for pollination, especially in commercial orchards. Two varieties of almonds are necessary for cross-pollination to be successful.

2. Chestnuts - "Chestnuts roasting on an open fire", says the popular Christmas song. The Chestnut tree is a fast-growing tree. Their mature heights vary from the smallest species of chinkapins, often shrubby, to the giant of past American forests, Castanea dentata that could reach 60m. Fresh chestnut fruits have about 180 calories to 200 calories per 100 gr. of product; it is nevertheless much lower than that of walnuts, almonds, other nuts and dried fruit. Chestnuts contain no cholesterol and contain very little fat, mostly unsaturated, and no gluten. Chestnuts carbohydrate content compares with that of wheat and rice. In some areas Sweet Chestnut trees are called "the bread tree". Chestnuts are the only nuts that carry Vitamin C. Dried chestnuts have more than double that amount with 16.6 mg. for one ounce, as much as the lemon.

Chestnuts are probably one of the first foods eaten by man. The chestnut tree was first introduced to Europe via Greece. The majority of the chestnut trees currently found in America are of native European stock, but Native Americans feasted on America's own variety, Castanea dentata, long before European immigrants introduced their stock to America.
  In 1904, diseased Asian chestnut trees planted on Long Island, New York carried a fungus hitchhiker that nearly devastated the American chestnut population, leaving only a few groves in California and the Pacific Northwest to escape the blight.

3. Walnuts - Walnuts are deciduous trees, which grow to about 30–130 feet. There are 21 species of Walnut around the world. Common walnut (Juglans regia) is a beautiful, slow growing tree. Walnut trees prefer cool climates and sunshine. The mature tree is quite frost hardy, but young plants and new spring growth are vulnerable to frost damage. Walnut trees prefer deep, rich, well-drained soils with regular watering through summer and plenty of light. Walnuts are one of the best plant sources of protein. They are rich in fiber, Vitamin B, magnesium, and antioxidants such as Vitamin E. Nuts in general are also high in plant sterols and fat - but mostly monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats (omega 3 fatty acids - the good fats) that have been shown to lower LDL cholesterol. Walnuts, in particular, have significantly higher amounts of omega 3 fatty acids as compared to other nuts.

4. Pecans - The pecan tree is a large deciduous tree, growing to 66–130 ft in height, rarely to 140 ft. The walnut fruit is oval to oblong that starts out green and turns brown at maturity. The pecan, at maturity will split off into four sections and then release the thin-shelled nut. Pecans, like the fruit of all other members of the hickory genus, are not true nuts but technically a drupe, (fruit with a single stone or pit). The husks are produced from the tissue of the flower while the part known as the nut develops from the endocarp.

There are a wide variety of nuts one can grow in their backyard and enjoy eating year around, but for the most popular Christmas nuts, this is a good start.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

A Trees Value

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Wed, 16 Dec 2009 18:55:00 +0000

Trees could be considered the basis of life. Not only do they help sustain human life, but they also hold their own elegance and beauty not to mention personal value.

 First of all, trees are constantly are pulling in our harmful pollutants from the air as well as carbon dioxide. Al of this is recycled back into oxygen for humans and animals alike to breathe. With today's planet inundated with more carbon dioxide than every from cars, coal processing plants and factories, having a natural way to convert this pollution into something healthy is important. Not only do we need the air to breathe but pollutants such as carbon dioxide are known to be responsible for blending with the atmosphere and creating what we know today as the green house effect. The green house effect allows more and more harmful ultraviolet rays to beat down on our earth's surface. In result, the climate gets hotter, which creates a chain reaction such as the melting of polar ice caps at an alarming rate.

As scientists look into fixing the earth's atmosphere, one of their most important cures includes the replanting of trees all around the world. This replanting has even earned its own holiday and is called Arbor Day. In the end, the planting of these seedlings has caused many green house emissions to turn into pure clean air.

 If scientific reasons aren't important enough to call a tree valuable, how about its historic context? The tree has been around since the beginning of time, possibly even before humans were on the earth. A tree's value has been so important that they have been told in stories such as how the tree played a role in the biblical Garden of Eden or even how trees played roles in mythological tales. In American history, a story has been told for centuries about the famous Johnny Appleseed, who was said to have planted apple trees for miles around, possible helping the pioneers settle into new lands with the promise of the sweet fruit of the tree to guide their way.

The tree itself can also tell a story, that is one of historic droughts or floods. By examining the rings within a tree, scientists can detect whether there has been significant climate changes throughout time or even catastrophic events.

Because of a tree's value, one can often read how a tree is used metaphorically to represent life, death and growth. The term tree is used to represent one's ancestors in their family, such as the family tree.
 Are trees the basis of life? If not, they certainly play a huge role.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

How Does A Tree Survive The Winter?

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sat, 12 Dec 2009 01:19:00 +0000

Have you ever wondered what happens to a tree in the winter months? Ansel Adams has made a living out of photographing the beauty of such trees; but what, truly, is going on inside these large pieces of nature?

Trees may look as if they are inactive going into winter, but they continue to regulate their metabolism. Early dormancy involves a number of factors: active growth, formation of buds, losing leaves and development of cold resistance. The buds of some trees have a winter chilling requirement for winter survival. Evidence from some experiments proves that chemical treatments immediately prior to the first frost may break winter rest for trees. So it is recommended that weed or growth killers for trees not be applied a few weeks prior to the temperature dropping to low levels.

As trees begin to lose their leaves, they are already preparing for the cold season. Leaves are a main source of light absorption, so trees must start building up a food and fertilization supply within the roots and branches to last throughout winter. This dormancy is triggered, in trees, by a number of factors: temperatures dropping, minimal nutrition gatherings and water supply.

Along with the naturally cold temperatures, excessive winds and ice that is all produced during the winter season, there are other variables that can determine a tree’s heath for next spring. As the temperature begins to drop, small animals such as snakes and rodents, are actively seeking winter shelters. Mass quantities of these animals within a tree can damage and even hollow a tree completely. Deer are also dependent on tree bark as a food source during the winter months. Paint-on repellents and mesh fencing can deter some of this activity, but trees may take an unhealthy turn when animals are consistently wearing on them.

Pruning a tree during late Fall can protect it from major branch breakage. As ice begins to build up on tree branches, the weight can often snap branches in half. Pruning dead or overlapping branches can strengthen a tree for winter. Even deadwood and ill branches should be removed and discarded of, for the health of a tree.

There are several dormant sprays that are available to protect your tree from Jack Frost. These sprays often contain copper, lime and sulfur. These protectants, with a nice top layer of mulch around the tree, may stop microorganisms from entering the tree. If sprays aren’t for you, there are several organic options to getting lime into the tree’s roots and base.

When it comes to your evergreens, be sure to keep them properly watered throughout the winter to reduce winter injury.. Never stress plants by under - or overwatering. Decrease watering slightly in September to encourage hardening off, and then water thoroughly in October until freeze-up. Watering only in late fall does not help reduce injury. If an evergreen has suffered winter injury, wait until mid-spring before pruning out injured foliage. Brown foliage is most likely dead and will not green up, but the buds, which are more cold hardy than foliage, will often grow and fill in areas where brown foliage was removed. If the buds have not survived, prune dead branches back to living tissue. Fertilize injured plants in early spring and water them well throughout the season. Provide appropriate protection the following winter.

Even though trees respond differently to winter stress and each winter provides a different set of stressful conditions, trees possess a remarkable ability to withstand extremely severe winter conditions.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

The Makings of a Tree

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Tue, 01 Dec 2009 21:21:00 +0000

Most learn about trees in grade school, but how many remember its anatomy and the fascinating complexity of what contributes to a tree's health. For those of you who can't remember, here they are:

Branches - Most know what a branch is, but did you know they are attached to the tree by interlocking branch and trunk tissue? Each year, a new layer of interlocking tissue is produced covering the previous year's layers. A woody branch collar, produced by the trunk, holds the branch base. A branch will grow in diameter until it runs out of room. Leaves on every branch must produce enough food to feed itself. Food does not move from roots or other branches to supply a starving branch. Branches unable to support themselves are sealed off. Branches on the interior of a shade tree that do not receive adequate light will die and eventually fall.

Roots - A tree's roots are important and to keep the tree healthy roots need an adequate amount of oxygen and moisture. Most active tree roots are in the top 3 feet of soil; the majority is in the top 12 inches. The more compacted or poorly drained the soil the closer the roots are to the soil surface. A tree's roots will grow most of the year, stopping only when soil temperatures are cold. A tree has perennial woody roots and annual absorbing roots. Woody roots become thicker each year. The absorbing roots die but are replaced by new absorbing roots. Annual absorbing roots form shallow, horizontal fans that take-up water and nutrients. A few woody support roots grow downward and outward to anchor the tree in place. Most trees do not have a deep taproot. While a taproot may develop on trees growing in the woods in well-drained soils, they generally do not develop on trees transplanted into the landscape or on trees grown in compacted or poorly drained soil.

Roots can grow outward to about three times the width of the branch spread but only 50 percent of the root system occurs between the trunk and the dripline. The foliage of a tree is supplied by the roots on the same side. If a tree begins to wither on one side, it can often be due to the roots on that same side being injured. With some trees, such as maple, the effect may develop anywhere in the tree canopy.

Tree roots tend to avoid each other when young, but as they grow they may be forced together and from a graft union. These grafts can conduct diseases from one tree to another.

Leaves - Leaves are the food factories of the tree. Sunlight creates chlorophyll within the leaves. This along with carbon dioxide and water produce life-sustaining carbohydrates through a process called photosynthesis. Leaves are also responsible for respiration and transpiration. The lobes, leaflets and jagged edges of many broad leaves have their uses, too. They help evaporate the water used in food-building, reduce wind resistance and even provide "drip tips" to shed rain that, left standing, could decay the leaf. Besides its branches, roots, and leaves, a mature tree grows another important structure - the flower (or cone, in the case of evergreens). These are the reproductive structures from which the seeds are produced.

While a tree's components may seem basic, its anatomy is actually quite complex and an amazing illustration of nature at its best.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

The Best Trees For Christmas

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:24:00 +0000

Christmas is around the corner and those who like to get an early start on their holiday decorating are eyeing what type of tree they want. According to a poll, the top Christmas Tree Species most available for purchase include the following:

1. Fraser Fir - The Fraser fir is a native southern fir and very similar to Balsam fir. This tree naturally grows at elevations above 5,000 feet and it has dark green needles, 1/2 to 1 inch long. The tree has excellent needle retention along with a nice scent. The Fraser fir is a uniformly pyramid-shaped tree that reaches a maximum height of about 80 feet and a diameter of 1-1.5 feet. Its strong branches are turned slightly upward which gives the tree a compact appearance. Leaves (needles) of the Balsam fir are flattened, dark-green with a medial groove on the upper side and two broad silvery-white bands on the lower surface. Leaves are 1/2 to one inch long, have a broad circular base, and are usually dark green on the upper surface and lighter on the lower surface. On lower branches, leaves are two-ranked (occurring in two opposite rows). On upper twigs, leaves tend to curl upward forming a more "U-shaped" appearance.

Fraser fir was named for Scot botanist John Fraser who explored the southern Appalachians in the late 1700's. Interestingly, this tree is commonly planted at lower elevations for ornamental and Christmas tree purposes. In many respects, Fraser fir and balsam fir are quite similar, although the geographic ranges of the two species do not overlap. Some scientists even suggest that because of the many similarities, the two species were once a single species which has since evolved into the present-day forms.

The combination of form, needle retention, dark blue-green color, pleasant scent and excellent shipping characteristics has led to Fraser fir being a most popular Christmas tree species. North Carolina produces the majority of Fraser fir Christmas trees. It requires from 7 to 10 years in the field to produce a 6-7 feet tree.

2. Douglas Fir - The Douglas Fir is not a true fir but actually has its own unique classification. Unlike true firs the cones on Douglas fir hang downward. Douglas fir grows in a cone-shaped naturally and has 1 to 1-1/2 inch needles that have sweet scent when crushed. The Doug fir tree is shipped to and found in nearly every tree lot in the Unites States. The Douglas-Fir grows 40 to 60 feet and spreads 15 to 25 feet in an erect pyramid in the landscape. It grows to more than 200 feet tall in its native habitat in the West. Hardiness varies with seed source. The Douglas-fir has been the major Christmas tree species used in the Pacific Northwest since the 1920's. Since the 1950's, the transformation from growing trees in the wild to culturing them on plantations has been dramatic. Today, few trees come from forest lands.

The Douglas Fir was named after David Douglas who studied the tree in the 1800's.
 
3. Balsam Fir - The Balsam fir is a beautiful pyramidal tree with short, flat, long-lasting, aromatic needles. Balsam fir and Fraser fir have many similar characteristics and some botanists consider them extensions of the same species. The Balsam fir has a nice, dark green color and very fragrant. The tree was named for the balsam or resin found in blisters on bark and which was used to treat wounds in Civil War.

Balsam fir is the most cold hardy and aromatic of all firs. The Balsam tree generally grows to 40-60 feet in height and 1-1 1/2 feet in diameter. It exhibits a relatively dense, dark-green, pyramidal crown with a slender spire-like tip. On lower branches needles generally occur as two-ranked (two rows along sides of the branch), 3/4 - 1 1/2 inches long, spreading and not crowded. On older branches, the needles tend to be shorter and curved upward so as to cover the upper sides of the twigs. Individual needles are somewhat flat and may be blunt or notched at the end. Needles have a broad circular base and are usually dark green on the upper surface, lighter on the lower surface. Two silvery bands of stomata (pores) are found on the lower surface.

Balsam fir bark is thin, ash-gray, and smooth except for numerous blisters on young trees. These blisters contain a sticky, fragrant, liquid resin. Thus, the species has been sometimes referred to as "blister pine". Upon maturity, bark may become up to 1/2 inch thick, red-brown and broken into thin scales.

4. Colorado Blue Spruce - The Colorado Blue Spruce is most familiar to people as an ornamental landscape tree. The tree has dark green to powdery blue needles, 1 to 3 inches long and a pyramidal form when young. Colorado blue spruce is very often sold "living" and with an entire root ball - to be planted after the holidays. The spruce was chosen in 1978 and planted as the official living White House Lawn Christmas tree. The young tree is pleasingly symmetrical, is best among species for needle retention and the state tree of both Utah & Colorado.

Colorado Blue Spruce has a horizontal branching habit and grows taller than 75 feet in its native habitat, but is normally seen at 30 to 50 feet in landscapes. Needles emerge as a soft clump, changing to a stiff, pointed needle sharp to the touch. The crown form varies from columnar to pyramidal, ranging from 10 to 20 feet in diameter.

Leaves (needles) are 1-1 1/2 inches long on lower branches but somewhat shorter on upper branches. They are 4-sided and have a very sharp point on the end.

5. Scotch Pine - Scotch or "Scots" pine is the most planted commercial Christmas tree in North America according to NCTA. However, this survey does not suggest that it is the most popular. A true pine, Scots pine was imported from Europe and is not native to America. It was first used in reforestation efforts in the New World. Scotch pine tree has stiff branches, two bundled dark green needles 1 to 3 inches long that are retained for four weeks. The aroma is long-lasting and lingers through the entire season. Scotch pine does not drop needles when dry - excellent retention.

The needles of Scotch pine are produced in bundles of two. They are variable in length, ranging from slightly over 1-inch for some varieties to nearly 3-inches for others. Color is likewise variable with bright green characteristic of a few varieties to dark green to bluish tones more prominent in others. The undersides of Scotch pine needles are characterized by several prominent rows of white appearing stomatal openings.

6. Eastern Red Cedar - The Eastern red cedar (ERC) is mainly a regional favorite and has been a traditional Christmas tree of the South. Branches of eastern Red Cedar are light but compact and forms a pyramidal crown as a young tree. Actually ERC is not a true cedar but in fact a juniper. This tree has very aromatic needles which are a dark, shiny, green color and sharp and prickly to the touch. Although they are slow growing, heights of over 40 feet have been recorded. Eastern Red Cedars have been known to adjust to shade conditions by remaining dormant until the dominant trees loose their leaves. They then conduct photosynthesis while their taller neighbors are dormant.

7. White Spruce - White spruce is a tree of the northeast US and Canada. It is a regional favorite because it grows into the best shapes in the wild. White spruce has green to bluish green needles but crushed needles have an unpleasant odor. Another problem with the spruce is it has poor needle retention. The tree is excellent for heavy ornaments. White spruce is the state tree of South Dakota. Trees often reach 80-140 feet in height and 1.5 to 3 feet in diameter. The oldest white spruce may reach 300 years of age.

8. Eastern White Pine - White pine has been valued as a timber tree for centuries but can be cultivated for a Christmas tree if heavily sheared. White pine is grown mostly in the mid-Atlantic states for commercial Christmas trees. The tree retains needles throughout the holiday season but has little or no fragrance and not a good tree for heavy ornaments. The tree is sought by people who suffer from allergic reactions to more fragrant trees. The White pine is the largest pine in United States and the state tree of Michigan and Maine.

Leaves (needles) are soft, flexible and bluish-green to silver green in color and are regularly arranged in bundles of five. Needles are 2 1/2-5 inches long and are usually shed at the end of the second growing season. Both male and female flowers (strobili) occur on the same tree, with pollination occurring in spring. Cones are 4-8 inches in length, usually slightly curved and mature at the end of the second season. Cone scales are rather thin and never have prickles. Cones also have exudations of a fragrant gummy resin.

For Christmas trees, sheared trees are preferred, although some people feel shearing results in trees too dense for larger ornaments. Needle retention is good to excellent. White pine has very little aroma, but, conversely, is reported to result in fewer allergic reactions than do some of the more aromatic species. To produce a 6-foot tree requires 6-8 years on good sites.

9. White Fir or Concolor Fir - White fir is one of the longest-needled firs and is sometimes mistakened for a pine. A significant portion of these Christmas trees are used in California. Concolor fir has blue-green needles that are 1/2 to 1-1/2 inches long. The fir has a nice shape with a pleasing aroma and good needle retention. White fir, also commonly called concolor fir, is native to the western United States and may reach sizes of 130-150 ft. in height and 3 to 4 ft. in diameter. The oldest white firs may occasionally reach 350 years of age. It produces a spire-like crown with a straight trunk. As a Christmas tree, white fir has good foliage color, a pleasing natural shape and aroma, and good needle retention.

10. Virginia Pine - Virginia pine has only recently been used as a Christmas tree. It tolerates warmer temperatures and has been developed as a southern alternative to Scotch pine. The tree has to be mechanically formed into shape; the foliage is dark green to gray in color; the limbs are stout with woody branches; Virginia pine is one of the most often purchased Christmas trees in the Southeastern United States. The Virginia pine's needles occur in pairs. They are twisted and range from 1.5 to 3" in length. They are relatively short when compared to those of other pines. Loblolly needles, by comparison, are from 4 to 9" long. Individual needle clusters can remain for 3 or 4 years. They are then shed and replaced with new needles as the branches grow in length.

Virginia pine responds well to trimming. And, on Christmas tree plantations their foliage can become extremely dense. As with other pines, these show a tendency to self pruning when grown with competition from other trees. This characteristic becomes apparent after about the sixth year as the lower limbs begin to wither.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Keeping Your Tree Soil Healthy

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 18:55:00 +0000

A tree is as healthy as the soil it sits in. And yet, a trees soil is often overlooked. So what can you do to improve your tree's soil?

To start, soil is not just dirt. You can consider soil as its own ecosystem as it really is. There are thousands of different organisms that coexist within soil, often competing, but often helping each other survive. These include plants, animals, fungi and bacteria - all which have forged lasting symbiotic relationships with other species at some point in their evolutionary histories. These organisms rely on the benefits of these relationships through times of hardship. Soil also contains large numbers of mineral elements. The composition of these elements varies greatly from region to region which is one reason that some plants do well in certain areas, while others quickly die.

When trees are planted in areas that are often depleted of minerals and needed organisms is when the most attention needs to be placed on supplementing the soil. Such places often include areas that have been over planted already or urban environments. Places that are over planted often pull many of the nutrients from the soil, especially if they are similar trees requiring the same organisms and minerals. As for urban environments, the soil is often inadequate due to lacking certain minerals along with beneficial mycorrhizal fungi and nitrogen-fixing bacteria.

To improve your soil, the first thing you can do is to fertilize. When fertilizing, remember that you are trying to mimic a soil's ideal condition. An easy way to replenish your soil is with compost. If you don't want to pay for compost, just allowing your leaves to remain on the ground instead of raking them up, will allow these leaves to break down and return their nutrients back to the soil. If you prefer to purchase your fertilizer or don't have leaves you can just allow to crumble into the ground, look for fertilizers made up of macronutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium) and micronutrients (such as Iron, Magnesium and Manganese). These minerals all have different effects on the growth of a tree and different trees need different formulations.

A good time to fertilize trees in most Northern temperate climates is from fall to mid-spring. At these times the tree's roots take the nutrients from the soil and apply them to important health-promoting functions such as root development and disease resistance, rather than simply putting out new growth. You can also fertilize during the growing season which can help your tree overcome mineral deficiencies and fight off infections. If you are fertilizing in mid- to late summer, avoid formulations high in nitrogen as this will just promote weak, new growth that may be easily damaged in the winter.

When applying fertilizer, place them where you think they best will be taken up by the tree's roots. In general, the roots extend well beyond the outer reach of a tree's branches.

The fertilizer must also be placed underneath the roots of any competing plants such as grass or other ground cover. Spreading granular fertilizer on the lawn might make your grass greener, but it will likely not help your tree.

The second step to improving your soil is to add mycorrhizal fungi. In exchange for sugars and simple carbohydrates, the mycorrhizal fungi absorb and pass on minerals and moisture required for the plant's growth. Because mycorrhizal fungi live in and around a plant's living root system, they effectively extend the root system deeper into the soil, allowing a plant to take in more nutrients. These organisms are a vital link in a plant's nutrient cycle.
  In nature, mycorrhizal fungi are found on about 99% of plant species, but in urban environments, the poor, compacted soils often lack this fungi.

Soil takes time and management, but by practicing a few practical necessities, your trees can continue to become stronger and healthier.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

 

Managing Wood-Boring Insects

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 14:06:00 +0000

To keep your trees healthy, one will want to watch out for what is called wood-boring insects. These insects are considered secondary invaders, which means if your tree is already unhealthy, infestation of these insects will only damage them more. So what can you do to avoid these wood-boring creatures? According to the local extension agency, here are a few good horticultural practices:

• Select well-adapted species of trees and shrubs that are not commonly attacked by woodborers in your area. Arizona ash, birch, cottonwood, locust, soft maple, flowering stone fruits (such as peaches and plums), slash pines (in west Texas), willow and poplar are especially prone to borer attack.
• Choose and prepare a good planting site to avoid plant stress, freeze damage, sunscald and windburn.
• Minimize plant stress and use proper watering and fertilization practices.
• Avoid injury to tree trunks from lawn mowers, weed trimmers or construction.
• Promptly care for wounded or broken plant parts using pruning or wound paint during all but the coldest months of the year.
• Properly thin and prune during colder months.
• Remove and destroy infested, dying or dead plants or plant parts, including fallen limbs.
• Wrap tree trunks and limbs with quarter-inch hardware cloth spaced about 1 1/2 inches from the tree’s surface where woodpecker damage is likely. Sometimes wrapping trunks to prevent borer attack is ineffective and may, under certain conditions, increase the rate of infestation. Using plastic trunk protectors to help prevent injury from lawn mowers and weed trimmers is a good idea.

So what about the use of pesticides, you may ask? Once trees and shrubs are infested, non-chemical options for borer control are limited. One option is to remove and destroy heavily infested or injured plants. Damage sites also can be inspected closely to determine if the larvae stages can be extracted from the plant with a pocketknife, wire or other suitable tool. Again, it is important to remember that stressed, unhealthy trees can be attacked repeatedly and will need repeated applications of insecticide indefinitely. In most cases this is neither economical nor environmentally justified. When chemical treatments are used, efforts always should be made to improve overall tree health.

Insecticide products registered for borer control are applied as sprays to the trunks and branches, and are non-systemic, residual insecticides (e.g., bendiocarb, carbaryl, chlorpyrifos, endosulfan, es-fenvalerate, f luvalinate, lin-dane, methoxychlor, sumithion). While these products do not kill larvae that have already penetrated the sapwood or heartwood, they will kill adult and larval stages tunneling through the treated bark layer. These are primarily a preventive treatment. Some products (those containing paradichlorobenzene and ethylene dichloride) act as fumigants to repel egg-laying adults or kill accessible larvae.

Trunk injection products (containing acephate, dicrotophos and oxydemeton-methyl) are registered for treatment of some borers. These products are supposed to work by delivering insecticides into the cambium and phloem tissues where borers feed. These injections are most effective against sap feeding insects and rarely affect woodborer larvae. Research has shown that damage caused by inserting the injection devices into trunks can be significant.

One way to protect your trees is to consider where these wood boring insects are coming from. Most adult woodborers emerge from firewood stored indoors. While most of these insects are not considered harmful, old house borer and powderpost beetles will attack seasoned, dry wood inside the home. Treating firewood with insecticide is both ineffective and potentially dangerous to the homeowner. Wood should be stored outdoors away from the house until just before use. If firewood is infested with borers it can be treated by wrapping it in a tarp and allowing sunlight to heat it. Stacking wood layers in alternate directions will help it dry and reduce areas that can harbor insects.

By practicing these few things, you could save yourself a lot of time and money in protecting your trees.
Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Saving Money with Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Sat, 07 Nov 2009 14:03:00 +0000

Everybody is looking for ways to cut energy costs these days. According to the Department of Energy, strategic planting of as few as three trees can provide the average household with an energy savings of between $100-$250 annually. How can you use trees to save energy?

First, understanding how our homes are heated or cooled by temperatures outside is important. During the winter, homes can gain warmth through the sun and south facing windows due to the sun being low in the sky. East and west windows will also provide small amounts of sunlight into your home in the winter. This free energy can represent 5% to 20% of the energy needed to heat your home. Cutting out wind and air leaks can also help maintain the warmth in your home.

As for the summer, blocking out unwanted heat is the secret to maintaining a comfortable home. This is where planting trees that create shade can help you conserve energy. To know where to strategically plant your trees, identify these conditions:

• Figure out which side of your house faces north.
• Draw your house on a piece of paper with north facing the top of page. Show on the house drawing the approximate location of east and west-facing windows.
• Draw in the approximate location of the major features of your yard: driveway, property lines, power lines, existing trees.
• Find north exposure. Note shadows in your drawing.
• Evaluate where trees will be most beneficial
• Look at planting shade trees due west of west-facing windows.
• Look at planting an evergreen windbreak tree to the north and west.
• Select and mark your best planting site so that it doesn’t conflict with existing trees, wires, etc.

Planting trees strategically is important. For the most shade, plant near west and east windows while avoiding planting trees in front of south windows. Select trees that can be planted within twenty feet of the window and that will grow at least ten feet taller than the window. When space permits, use as many trees as needed to create a continuous planting along all major west and east facing windows. Deciduous trees will provide maximum summer shade while minimizing winter shade.

Besides creating shade, your trees also can serve as a windbreak. Trees are ideal wind filters; they bend gently with its force slowing down turbulence. For maximum wind protection, you need enough trees along with trees that are dense and tall enough. The ideal windbreak tree is a dense evergreen whose branches extend from ground level to a height at least twice as tall as the building being sheltered. Windbreak trees need to be clustered together to reduce wind going between the trees. The most efficient way to do this is to plant trees in rows perpendicular to the primary winter wind direction—usually running along the west and north sides of the property. Since the wind will increase some at the edges of the windbreak, not only should the trees be taller, but the windbreak should be much longer than the buildings being sheltered. To keep dense branches to the ground, evergreens need full sun that means they must not be overcrowded.

Trees do a lot more than help you lower your energy costs and provide birds with a place to perch. Trees increase the value of your home, reduce air pollutants, and make life comfortable all while saving people on their energy bills.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Are Deer Eating Your Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 18:06:00 +0000

The deer population in many states is rampant and as humans encroach more on the wildlife and their grazing grounds, it is no wonder there is a problem with the mix. It isn't uncommon to see deer wondering into residential areas looking for food and this can mean munching on your trees and destroying your yard.

Deer can cause damage to your trees, garden and yard in many ways. Deer love to feed on leaves, stems, flowers, and bark, and while they are searching for such goodies, they often crush plants and flowers with their hooves. In addition, male deer often rub their antlers on tree trunks, causing bark to shed and trunks to splinter or split. This type damage often occurs during the fall season between the months of September and November.

How can you tell it is deer that has caused the damage to your trees? Searching for evidence and clues will help you know for certain what it is that has been nosing around your yard. The first thing to search for are track marks. Deer hoof prints are generally 3 to 4 inches in length. Another sign to look for are deer droppings. Deer droppings are pellet-like, elongated and may appear in clumps. If you notice that the branches and twigs in your garden are rough and shredded, rather than bitten with a clean cut, it is likely that deer are the culprit. They are not equipped with sharp upper incisors, so deer feeding on trees results in tattered-looking branches. Deer usually feed in the early hours of the morning. Damage can be more severe in areas with a high deer population and scarce food sources.

What kinds of trees do deer prefer? Their favorite include the following:

• White Cedar (Arbor Vitae) - Evergreen with flat scalelike "leaves." Some varieties used for ornamental shrubbery. A swamp tree but it can grow on moist upland. In many areas browsing deer have eaten practically all cedar within reach.

• White Pine - Young trees have smooth dark green bark. Deer will eat white pine before they take other pines.

• Maples - Trees with buds opposite each other Sugar maple has brownish or gray twigs with brown pointed buds. Red maple has red twigs and reddish rounded buds and is better deer food.

• Yellow Birch - The bark of young tree , and twigs is brownish turning yellowish-gray and curling up when older. Pointed buds. Twigs taste like wintergreen. Young yellow birch looks like ironwood (a poor deer food), but ironwood has no wintergreen taste.

• Dogwoods and Viburnums - Shrubs that generally have opposite buds like maples. Red dogwood has bright red twigs. Other species have reddish green, brown, or gray twigs. Viburnum buds are many different shapes.

• Sumac - Shrub commonly found in old fields and forest openings. Heavy, stiff, brown twigs and branches. One kind is fuzzy and resembles antlers in velvet. Another kind is smooth. Bunches of fuzzy red fruit at the top of all sumac plants.

Deer will also eat other trees when moderately hungry, they include:
• Aspen - This tree is, also called "popple" or "poplar" and is one of the most common Michigan trees. Trembling aspen has whitish, greenish gray bark and long pointed shiny buds Big toothed aspen has yellow green bark and fatter, fuzzy buds. Balm of Gilead (a poor deer food) looks similar, but has gray-green bark with bin sticky end buds and grows in wet areas.

• Jack Pine - A small needled tree. Needles, 2 in a bundle are 1 to 1 ½ inches long. Young stands provide good winter cover, but only fair deer food.

• Oaks - Buds at ends of twigs are clustered and only moderate in food value, but acorns provide excellent deer food.

• Ash - Green to light brownish gray, stiff, smooth stems with opposite, dark brown and black buds. Side buds close to end bud. Black ash is a swamp species. White ash prefers upland sites.

• White Birch - This is the common "paper" or "canoe" birch. Bark on young stems is a shiny orange brown color that gradually turns white and "papery."

• Witch-Hazel - Look for the unusual-shaped light brown buds. Yellow crinkly flowers can be seen in the fall along the sterns.

There are some plants and trees that are said to be more deer resistant than others, but when faced with starvation deer will likely eat anything that is available. To help protect your yard, you may consider constructing a physical barrier around your property, such as a high fence, but this can often be prohibitively expensive as well as unsightly. When used properly, repellents can be effective ways to keep deer away from your plants. Some people make a mix that includes Cayenne pepper to sprinkle on their trees and shrubs. There are also commercial products one can use. Hopefully one or all of the above mentioned deterrents will help you protect your trees for future and healthy growth.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

The Competition Between Trees and Grass

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:25:00 +0000

Looking across grassy prairies or even grasslands, how often do you see trees? Rarely you say? This is due to the fact trees and grass are somewhat incompatible plant types and despite this fact, we see them put together time and time again in urban settings. The reason these two plants are mostly incompatible is due to the competition for sunlight, water, mineral nutrients and growing space beneath the ground. Grass roots out number tree roots and yet the tree can hog the sunlight, which eventually kills the grass and helps increase its root capacity. So what can one do to help these two opposing plants to get along? Here are some suggestions?

1. Prune Your Trees - A tree naturally fills full of branches and leaves which then creates shade beneath it. Grass needs light so therefore the trees shade kills it. To help maintain a balance, schedule your tree for an annual pruning. Pruning your trees could take the hand of an expert but if you are doing it yourself, remember not to remove more than one-fourth of the tree's foliage-bearing crown in a single session. If a tree is thinned too much, it will be stressed, and will probably produce many watersprouts (suckers) along its branches to compensate for lost foliage. This process defeats the purpose of pruning for more light. One should instead look to possible raise the tree's crown as this will help increase light penetration. Crown raising involves the removal of lower branches on trees, and most tree species are quite tolerant of this pruning practice.

2. Control Your Trees Roots - This seems impossible you may say. But some trees form what are called surface roots. The simplest way to get rid of these surface roots is with the use of mulch. Mulching around your tree on the root areas is not only easy and affordable but it also is beneficial to the tree. Mulch helps retain soil moisture, moderates soil temperature, and reduces competition from weeds. Organic mulch can help condition the soil and improve microbial activity. Apply mulch about 2 to 4 inches deep but do not pile it against the tree trunks. When mulching, the more area covered, the better. Mulch groups of trees together and extend the mulched areas as far out as practical.

3. Mow Your Grass Cautiously - To keep your tree healthy, be cautious when mowing or weed eating around it. Trees are severely damaged by the bumping of the lawn mower against the bark or even the whipping action of a nylon stringed weed eater. Such damage causes stress on a tree, which then weakens it and makes it susceptible to disease and damage.

4. Chemical treatments - Monitor the amount of herbicides, especially broadleaf weed killers that you place on your lawn where your trees are. Most trees are 'broadleaved plants' therefore if the dose is high enough, the herbicide can damage the tree or even kill it. Homeowners must keep in mind that "weed and feed" fertilizers contain herbicides, which can damage trees.

When trying to achieve a balance between keeping your trees and grass in a healthy competition, it requires making sure each have a fair advantage with one another. Understanding how each affects the other is a good way to start, this followed by a maintenance program that you stick to will ensure you can have your grass and trees too.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Protecting Your Trees Roots

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:23:00 +0000

There is a common belief that a trees root system is reflected by its crown above. Unfortunately this is not true. So if you are looking to dig around your tree, whether it is to plant other plants or even to build something such as a house or garage, its best to understand how a trees root systems work so that you can protect your tree's health.

There are many ways a tree can be damaged, the less obvious is the damage that occurs underground. Roots are vital to a tree's health as they are responsible for its nutrients and water uptake, they help the tree store energy, and they anchor the tree. Trees are never the same shape below ground as they are above, so it is difficult to predict the length or location of a tree's roots. The rule of thumb is that approximately 90-95 percent of a tree's root system is in the top three feet of soil, and more than half is in the top one foot. If you are planning to disturb the ground around a tree, the part of this root system in which construction damage should be avoided is called the Protected Root Zone (PRZ).

One common method used to identify the tree's PRZ is to define it as the "dripline"--the area directly below the branches of the tree. However, many roots extend beyond the longest branches a distance equal to two or more times the height of the tree. For this reason you should protect as much of the area beyond the dripline as possible.

While the above mentioned is ideal, unfortunately, in most places, space around a tree, especially on construction sites, is limited. In these situations, the rule of thumb sometimes has to be bent. When this occurs, one then has to evaluate how close to the roots one can dig without threatening the tree. The good news is that healthy trees can survive after losing 50 percent of their roots. However, other species are extremely sensitive to root cutting, even outside the dripline.

When digging, if possible, try not to disturb no more than 25 percent of the roots within the dripline for any tree. When dealing with trees that have been growing in the forest or that naturally have a narrow growth habit, an approach called the "critical root radius" is more accurate than the dripline method for determining the PRZ. This is particularly true for columnar trees and for those where competition has reduced the canopy spread.

To calculate critical root radius, begin by measuring the diameter at breast height (dbh). This is done by measuring the tree's trunk diameter (thickness) at a point 4.5 feet above the ground. The measurement should be done in inches. For each inch of dbh, allow for 1.5 feet of critical root radius for sensitive trees, or 1.0 feet for tolerant trees. For example, if a tree's dbh is 10 inches, then its critical root radius is 15 feet (10 x 1.5 = 15). The PRZ is an area around the tree with a diameter of 30 feet (2 x radius), and is the area in which a critical amount of the tree's roots may be found.

If construction is to occur in an area with numerous trees, it may be necessary to remove certain trees and decide which ones will be protected. In this case, develop a landscape protection plan. Obtain a set of site development plans that include where proposed buildings will be placed or even sidewalks and utility lines. Work with the builder on which trees can be saved and protected. Keep in mind that the builder can possibly shift locations of buildings slightly if there are certain trees you are set on protecting.

There are many ways to protect your tree's root systems when working around them, the first requires evaluating and understanding how a tree grows and its root sensitivity before putting a shovel into the ground.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Pruning Your Flowering Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:17:00 +0000

Pruning hardwood trees usually occurs when the tree is dormant and before new growth begins. The reason this is done is so that one can see the tree's branch structure and know where to make pruning cuts. This and pruning at this time helps the tree have a full growing season in which to close the pruning wounds and reduce the transmission of disease. Yet with spring flowering trees, if pruning occurs in the dormant season, many of the flower buds are lost.

When pruning flowering trees or early spring bloomers like redbud, crabapple, dogwood, and callery pear, each should be pruned immediately after they bloom since their flowers are born on the previous season’s growth. With these trees, pruning right after the bloom period, you still maximize the time available for healing the pruning wounds and avoiding pruning out next year’s incipient flower buds. The rule of thumb for these trees is to prune right after the flower petals fall off the tree.

By pruning your flowering trees, you are assisting it by removing dead, diseased, or broken branches. This in turn reduces the amount of stress on the tree and keeps it growing in a healthy way. Pruning your trees, whether flowering or not, also helps keep the surrounding area safe. Branches that are weak or interfere with things like power lines should be trimmed to avoid possible injury to people or property.

When should you prune? With flowering trees, summer flowering occurs on the new wood produced in the spring, while spring flowering occurs on the wood produced during the summer growth. Pruning for summer flowering plants and trees should take place in the winter or early spring to establish a healthy growing environment for new buds. Pruning for spring flowering plants should take place after the plants have bloomed in early spring. If the tree or shrub is less than two years old, only light pruning is needed.

When pruning, be careful not to over do it. By pruning lightly and annually instead of pruning large amounts at once, you are helping to keep your tree healthy. If your tree is already interfering with utility lines, buildings or other items in the environment, and pruning is a necessity, be cautious about not topping your tree. Topping is the removal of all parts of a tree beyond a certain height. Topping your tree should never be an option. While it seems you are getting rid of the hazard, in truth you are creating a bigger hazard as topping weakens trees. A weakened tree is then more susceptible to breakage during windstorms.

So what can you do to cut back your tree without topping it? Try reduction pruning, which is the process of taking longer branches and reducing them back to lateral branches. Some branches can be removed at their point of origin. Be cautious of excessive thinning of the interior branches as it can lead to growth of upright interior shoots or limb breakage.

If you are still confused about how to prune a flowering tree, consult with an arborist who is knowledgeable about such trees, especially if they are large trees. It is better to be safe than sorry.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Scheduling Tree Maintenance

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Thu, 08 Oct 2009 20:31:00 +0000

Waiting for your mature trees to become damaged or to damage other person's property probably isn't the best time to design a maintenance plan. Scheduling tree maintenance for mature trees is crucial, before there is damage.

So what types of maintenance items should be on your tree schedule? Below are items used by public agencies for their trees, which could easily be put on a private individuals tree maintenance schedule as well.

1. Crown cleaning - Remove dead, dying, diseased, crowded, weakly attached, and low vigor branches and watersprouts from the tree crown.

2. Crown thinning - Remove branches to increase light penetration and air movement into the crown. Greater light and air movement stimulates and maintains interior foliage, which improves branch taper and strength. Thinning reduces the wind-sail effect of the crown and the weight of heavy limbs. Thinning the crown can emphasize the structural beauty of the trunk and branches, as well as improve the growth of plants beneath the tree by increasing the light penetration.  When thinning the crown of mature trees, no more than one-quarter of the foliage should be removed. At least one-half of the remaining foliage should grow from branches that originate in the lower two-thirds of the tree.

 3. Crown reduction - This is also known as drop-crotching and it decreases the height and spread of a tree. Thinning cuts will maintain the structural integrity and natural form of a tree, and delay the time when it will need to be pruned again. To make this type of cut, prune the branch back to its point of attachment or to a lateral that is at least one-half the diameter of the cut being made.  

4. Crown restoration- This type of pruning improves the structure and appearance of trees that have been topped or severely pruned using heading cuts. Select one to three main branch stubs that will grow to reform a more natural looking crown. Thinning or even heading may be required to match the weight of the new branches with the strength of their attachment. Restoration may require several prunings over a number of years.  

5. Crown raising - This type of pruning is important if your trees are in urban areas as it provides clearance for buildings, vehicles, pedestrians, and vistas by removing lower branches. It is important to maintain at least one-half of the tree's foliage on branches that originate in the lower two-thirds of the crown. This ensures a well-formed, tapered structure and uniformly distributed stress. When pruning for view, it's better to open "windows" through the foliage of the tree, rather than severely raising or reducing the crown.

6. Insect and Disease Control. Trees under stress are much more susceptible to attack by harmful insects and diseases and are more likely to exhibit symptoms of the adverse environment. Examine trees on a regular basis-whether or not a significant problem currently exists. These examinations help identify problems sooner, by providing a history of the plants that serves as a point of comparison when a serious problem develops.
Several types of local authorities are available for technical assistance. For free advice call on the county cooperative extension service, agricultural commissioners office and municipal parks or forestry offices. Information is also available for a nominal fee from local retail nurseries, tree services, pest control contractors or arboricultural and horticultural consultants. 

7. Fertilization and Aeration - The physical, chemical, and biological conditions of the soil may need to be managed just as elements of the trees' above-ground environment are managed. Trees need adequate amounts of nutrients, water and air in the soil. Without these elements trees will grow with less vigor and will be more susceptible to secondary problems, such as attack from insects and diseases. Properly nourished trees will be more able to withstand the attack of insects and diseases and tolerate the adverse growing environment afforded by most urban situations. 

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Gypsy Moths and Trees

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:14:00 +0000

It's hard to believe that a small moth can be so deadly to something as hardy and large as a tree and yet the gypsy moth is one of North America's most devastating forest pests.
What does the gypsy moth primarily feed on? Typically its most common hosts are oaks and aspen but they have been known to feed on the foliage of hundreds of species of plants in North America with the highest concentrations of host trees are in the southern Appalachians, the Ozarks, and in the northern Lake States.
This moth becomes powerful due to its numbers. It lays its eggs in masses, typically on branches and trunks of tree. The egg clusters are buff in color when first laid but may bleach out over the winter months when exposed to direct sunlight and weathering. Egg clusters contain from a couple of hundred to about 1200 eggs, although some batches may be as small as 50 eggs. Gypsy moths are dispersed in two ways; the first is through wind carrying newly hatched larvae hanging from host trees on silken threads. Larvae can travel for up to one mile with eggs carried even longer distances. Artificial dispersal occurs when people accidentally transport gypsy moth eggs thousands of miles from infested areas on cars and recreational vehicles, firewood, household goods, and other personal possessions. Females are flightless in most varieties, so these are the only means of spreading.
Tree damage is caused when the insect larvae, or caterpillars, emerge from their eggs to the leaves of trees and begin to eat them. The feeding occurs mostly at night. The gypsy moth caterpillar has a special preference for the leaves of deciduous hardwood trees such as maple, elm, and particularly oak. They can also feed on apple, alder, birch, poplar and willow trees. As the moth grows it will also attack evergreens like pines and spruces. Gypsy moths appear to dislike ashes, sycamores, butternuts, black walnuts, dogwoods and balsams. However, during heavy infestations, competition for food will drive the caterpillar to attack almost any tree or shrub.
Depending on the degree of infestation, tree damage ranges from light to almost complete defoliation. Most deciduous trees can survive a moderate degree of defoliation. Many can even survive one complete defoliation by the gypsy moth caterpillar. However, continuing attacks can fatally weaken a tree or leave it vulnerable to other insects or disease. The condition of the tree at the time it is defoliated, the number of consecutive defoliations, available soil moisture, and the species of host will determine if the tree continues to live or dies. If less than 50 percent of their crown is defoliated, most hardwoods will experience only a slight reduction (or loss) in radial growth. If more than 50 percent of their crown is defoliated, most hardwoods will refoliate or produce a second flush of foliage by midsummer. Healthy trees can usually withstand one or two consecutive defoliations of greater than 50 percent. Trees that have been weakened by previous defoliation or been subjected to other stresses such as droughts are frequently killed after a single defoliation of more than 50 percent.
A number of tactics have the potential to minimize damage from gypsy moth infestations and to contain or maintain gypsy moth populations at levels considered tolerable. These tactics include monitoring gypsy moth populations, maintaining the health and vigor of trees, discouraging gypsy moth survival, and treating with insecticides to kill larvae and protect tree foliage. The tactic or combination of tactics used will depend on the condition of the site and of the tree or stand and the level of the gypsy moth population.
Yes, believe it or not this small insect can cause this much damage. If you think your trees have been infested by gypsy moths, call your local agricultural cooperative agency or arborist to find out what you can do to stop the damage.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Misinformation About Tree Care

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 18:06:00 +0000

When it comes to caring for our trees, many of us rely on information passed down to us from our family or friends. The problem with this is that many times this information can be wrong and many do not find out until it is too late. So what are some common beliefs about trees that aren't true?
COMMON BELIEF #1: Securely stake your new tree when planting it so that it develops stable root system and strong trunk. Staking trees can be necessary at times just to keep them upright and to let them get established when first planted, but professionals have discovered that unstaked trees tend to develop a more extensive root system and better trunk taper than those that are staked. Allowing a small amount of movement can help root and trunk development. Of course, the worst effect of staking is the possibility of trunk damage from the staking wires or ties. Staking materials usually should be removed after one year to avoid "girdling" the tree.
COMMON BELIEF #2: You should wrap your tree trunks to prevent insect entry or sunscald. Generations of people have been wrapping their tree trunks for years, sometimes with kraft paper. Studies using most common tree wraps have shown that they do not prevent extreme fluctuations in temperature on the bark. In some cases, the temperature extremes are worse. Also, tree wraps have proven quite ineffective in preventing insect entry. In fact, some insects like to burrow under it. If you feel an absolute need to protect your thinbarked trees, such as ash, birch, linden or maple, a loose fitting tree guard in a light-reflective color would be better than a trunk wrap.
As with tree staking, trunk guards should be inspected periodically to make sure they aren’t restricting the trunk. Most guards can be removed six to twelve months after the tree is planted. Always remove wraps that come with a new tree. It was there to protect the bark during transport.
COMMON BELIEF #3: Pruning trees heavily compensates for the loss of roots. Although pruning the top can reduce the amount of water that evaporates from the leaves, the tree needs a full crown to produce the much-needed food and the plant hormones that induce root growth. The tree will develop a stronger, more extensive root system if it has a fuller crown. Limit pruning at the time of planting to structural training and the removal of damaged branches.
COMMON BELIEF #4: When removing a branch from a tree, the final cut should be flush with the stem to optimize healing. The old practice of pruning tree branches was to cut flush with the tree trunk. When this is done the ability of the tree to stop decay is greatly decreased. Flush-cut pruning cuts into the wood of the trunk cause a wound that can allow decay organisms to infect the main trunk of the tree. The current recommendation is to prune the branch to just outside the collar. Properly pruned branches will have a circular closure around the wound. When the branch is cut too close to the trunk, the closure will be oval or distorted.
COMMON BELIEF #5: After pruning, wounds should be dressed or painted. Research has shown that painting wounds does not prevent wood decay behind the pruning cut and may even increase the amount of wood rot by keeping the environment moist and dark. It's better to keep the wound open to air and light. Sometimes pruning paints are applied for cosmetic purposes. When this is done, they should only be applied in a thin coat.
COMMON BELIEF #6: Certain fast-growing, weak-wooded trees such as silver maple and Siberian elm should be "topped" to make them less hazardous in the landscape. While topping these trees may reduce the potential hazard at first, they will likely be more dangerous in the future. Topping starves a tree by reducing the amount of leaf surface and thereby reducing the tree’s ability to manufacture food for root growth, tree health, and tree vigor. Topping also stimulates growth of twigs below the cuts. Within 2-5 years after topping a tree, it will regain its height but with weaker limbs.
COMMON BELIEF #7: If certain species of trees are pruned early in the spring, they will "bleed," stressing the tree and causing health problems. True, some trees such as maples and birches will "bleed" or lose sap from pruning cuts made early in the spring. This bleeding does not hurt the tree, and the loss of sap is inconsequential. With a few exceptions, most routine pruning can be done anytime of year. The worst time is just as the tree has leafed out in the spring. The best time is when the tree is dormant. To maximize flowering for the following year, prune just after bloom this year.
COMMON BELIEF #8: The root system of a tree is a mirror image of the top. Many people envision a large, branching taproot growing deep into the soil. Actually, taproots are very uncommon in mature trees. If taproots do develop, they usually will be forced into horizontal growth when they encounter hard subsoils beneath the surface. The entire root systems of most trees can be found within three feet of soil. The spread of the root system however, can be very extensive, often extending 2-3 times the spread of the crown.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.

Proper Mulching Techniques

noreply@blogger.com (Central Texas Tree Care) — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 19:11:00 +0000

Mulching around your trees provides a good way to conserve moisture for your tree and keep plants healthy. Trees lose moisture from evaporation, mulching can conserve between 10 to 25 percent. They also help keep the soil well aerated by reducing soil compaction that results when raindrops hit the soil. Having the soil aerated in turn then reduces runoff and erosion. Mulch also helps keep the soil healthy, preventing possible fungi from causing soil-borne diseases.

Because trees sustain a lot of damage from lawn mowing and weed trimmers, adding mulch around the base of your trees can help reduce this damage. Professionals suggest a 2- to 4-inch layer. This will also help prevent most weeds from growing.

When applying your mulch, try and cover as much of the root zone as possible. The mulched area should extend at least 3 to 6 feet out from the base of the plant. Some suggest not putting the mulch right up against the base of the tree, leaving 1 to 2 inches - this can help prevent bark decay.

As far as how much mulch depth to build around your tree, this will depend on the type of soil surrounding it. Sandy soils dry out quickly and often benefit from a slightly deeper mulch layer (3 to 4 inches). A site that stays moist may not benefit from mulching at all.

You can apply your mulch any time of the year, but the most ideal is in late spring after the soil has warmed. Early spring application will delay soil warming and possibly plant growth. You do not have to remove the mulch when you fertilize, just apply the fertilizer over the mulch and the nutrients will move with water to the roots below.

In regards to what you can use for mulch, there are many materials out there - each with their advantages and disadvantages. Organic materials used for mulch should be weed-free. Some of the best organic materials include pine bark nuggets, pine straw, and compost. Pine straw looks nice and will remain in place better than most other materials but Pine bark lasts longer and can be washed with a heavy rain. Bark used as mulch should contain less than 10 percent wood fiber.

Other organic materials that are sometimes used as mulch include wheat straw, shredded newspaper, peanut hulls, wood chips, sawdust, and partially decomposed leaves. Any fresh, light-colored, unweathered organic mulch will tie up nitrogen during the early stages of decomposition.

Non-shredded leaves and grass clippings can form a thick mat that makes water penetration nearly impossible. If sawdust is used it should be well aged, otherwise it will be difficult for water to move into the soil. Uncomposted sawdust is low in nitrogen and will rob nitrogen from the soil as it decomposes.

With inorganic mulches, which include various types of stone, lava rock, pulverized rubber, geotextile fabrics, and other materials - they do not decompose and do not need to be replenished often. On the other hand, they do not improve soil structure, add organic materials, or provide nutrients. For these reasons, most horticulturists and arborists prefer organic mulches.

Mulching has many benefits to keeping your tree healthy and strong. If you have questions about the types of mulch to apply, ask your local arborist or even gardening center.

Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas) offering services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management, fertilization and Austin tree service trusts. For more information please visit http://www.centraltexastreecare.com.